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Saloni Dhruv profile imageSaloni DhruvPublished on

These young creatives are translating their multi-cultural identities into designs for the world to applaud and embrace

9 designers from the South Asian diaspora look towards their roots for inspiration

These designers are taking traditional craftsmanship to a global level through their work

For anyone in the creative field to be successful, it’s inherently vital to carve out a place for themselves by being true to who they are and where they come from. But these complexities of identity are what makes the South Asian diaspora of creatives so uniquely individual as they dig into their roots to provide traditional art and craftsmanship on a global level. The idea of South Asian clothing being synonymous to bridal wear or outlandish costume-y outfits (as seen in most Bollywood movies) is long gone as a new crop of designers try to bring to the fore the conversations of gender, caste, culture and tradition in a way that is appealing to their millennial and Gen-Z consumers. We take a look at some young creatives who are translating their multi-cultural identities into designs for the world to applaud and embrace.

Curious Grid:Sheetal Shah’s brand Curious Grid is the result of the pandemic, which she started after spending a considerable amount of time exploring and producing garments in India. A Central Saint Martins graduate, Shah shuttles between India and Milan, 2finding inspiration among local artisans in both countries. “Our collection is unisex and the styles are inspired by workwear clothing. I collaborate with artisans locally and industrially for dyeing and washing of denims. I also work with artisans in India to produce handwoven fabrics that take inspiration from my love for vintage markets and clothing,

Curious Grid:

Sheetal Shah’s brand Curious Grid is the result of the pandemic, which she started after spending a considerable amount of time exploring and producing garments in India. A Central Saint Martins graduate, Shah shuttles between India and Milan, 2finding inspiration among local artisans in both countries. “Our collection is unisex and the styles are inspired by workwear clothing. I collaborate with artisans locally and industrially for dyeing and washing of denims. I also work with artisans in India to produce handwoven fabrics that take inspiration from my love for vintage markets and clothing," says Shah, who creates one-off pieces of clothing like gilets and vests upcycled from cotton yarns leftover from the mills.

Instagram: Curious Grid 

Karu Research:Karu Research was developed by Kartik Kumra during the pandemic.. “I started working on Karu early on in the pandemic. I had returned to New Delhi from university and had a lot of time to kill so I began driving around to different artisanal clusters, buying small batches of fabric to put together some samples,” says Kumra, who launched the brand with the idea to re-contextualise heritage crafts. “Hailing from India, it didn’t make sense to me that there wasn’t an Indian luxury house that looked at the country’s textiles and cultural heritage, or at least in the esoteric menswear realm–where we exist–and outside the bridal couture realm,” he adds. From block prints to embroidery, Kumra’s Fall/Winter menswear collection explores ornamentation within the artisanal communities he works with.Instagram: Karu Research

Karu Research:

Karu Research was developed by Kartik Kumra during the pandemic.. “I started working on Karu early on in the pandemic. I had returned to New Delhi from university and had a lot of time to kill so I began driving around to different artisanal clusters, buying small batches of fabric to put together some samples,” says Kumra, who launched the brand with the idea to re-contextualise heritage crafts. “Hailing from India, it didn’t make sense to me that there wasn’t an Indian luxury house that looked at the country’s textiles and cultural heritage, or at least in the esoteric menswear realm–where we exist–and outside the bridal couture realm,” he adds. From block prints to embroidery, Kumra’s Fall/Winter menswear collection explores ornamentation within the artisanal communities he works with.

Instagram: Karu Research

ZnAli:Designer Zain Ali’s label is almost an ode to his Pakistani roots. From printed shirts with flared sleeves to tailored trousers, Ali’s designs lend a certain quirkiness to the otherwise structured pieces. The brand’s Instagram account, too, is a curation of South Asian heritage, with photographs from the ’70s and ’80s mixed amidst his collection. If nostalgia is what you are looking for, then ZnAli’s collections are a treasure trove for it.Instagram: ZnAli.co

ZnAli:

Designer Zain Ali’s label is almost an ode to his Pakistani roots. From printed shirts with flared sleeves to tailored trousers, Ali’s designs lend a certain quirkiness to the otherwise structured pieces. The brand’s Instagram account, too, is a curation of South Asian heritage, with photographs from the ’70s and ’80s mixed amidst his collection. If nostalgia is what you are looking for, then ZnAli’s collections are a treasure trove for it.

Instagram: ZnAli.co

Profound Co:Faraz Zaidi’s brand Profound Co has found a fan following in celebrities like Rihanna, Kendrick Lamar, Justin Bieber and, more recently, Gigi Hadid and John Mayer. A blend between high fashion and streetwear, Zaidi’s idea was to highlight the culture of his hometown of Pakistan and present it to the West, which is why his printed puffer jackets and cardigans are a hit among many. Now, almost 13 years later, Profound Co has successfully grown to become a seven-figure global menswear and lifestyle label.Instagram: Profound Co 

Profound Co:

Faraz Zaidi’s brand Profound Co has found a fan following in celebrities like Rihanna, Kendrick Lamar, Justin Bieber and, more recently, Gigi Hadid and John Mayer. A blend between high fashion and streetwear, Zaidi’s idea was to highlight the culture of his hometown of Pakistan and present it to the West, which is why his printed puffer jackets and cardigans are a hit among many. Now, almost 13 years later, Profound Co has successfully grown to become a seven-figure global menswear and lifestyle label.

Instagram: Profound Co

Ahluwalia:London-based Priya Ahluwalia has been on the rise ever since the launch of her label Ahluwalia in 2018. In 2020, she made it to Forbes’ ‘30 Under 30’ list, after participating in the London Fashion Week as part of British Fashion Council's NEWGEN that same year and becoming a joint winner of the LVMH Prize. Since then, Ahluwalia has collaborated with Paul Smith, Ganni and Mulberry and recently showcased her first independent runway collection called Bollywood to Nollywood at the London Fashion Week. Featuring dramatic colours and prints, her collection was a nod to her Nigerian and Indian heritage.Instagram: Ahluwalia 

Ahluwalia:

London-based Priya Ahluwalia has been on the rise ever since the launch of her label Ahluwalia in 2018. In 2020, she made it to Forbes’ ‘30 Under 30’ list, after participating in the London Fashion Week as part of British Fashion Council's NEWGEN that same year and becoming a joint winner of the LVMH Prize. Since then, Ahluwalia has collaborated with Paul Smith, Ganni and Mulberry and recently showcased her first independent runway collection called Bollywood to Nollywood at the London Fashion Week. Featuring dramatic colours and prints, her collection was a nod to her Nigerian and Indian heritage.

Instagram: Ahluwalia

Amesh:London-born, Berlin-based Amesh Wijesekera’s designs are a burst of happy, bright colours, the kind you’ll find in his hometown of Sri Lanka. As a 2022 semi-finalist of the prestigious LVMH Prize, Wijesekera’s collections exude a sense of freedom and individuality. The designer manages to combine traditional Sri Lankan craftsmanship with contemporary tailoring and textile production, which is why no two pieces from his collection are alike.Instagram: Amesh 

Amesh:

London-born, Berlin-based Amesh Wijesekera’s designs are a burst of happy, bright colours, the kind you’ll find in his hometown of Sri Lanka. As a 2022 semi-finalist of the prestigious LVMH Prize, Wijesekera’s collections exude a sense of freedom and individuality. The designer manages to combine traditional Sri Lankan craftsmanship with contemporary tailoring and textile production, which is why no two pieces from his collection are alike.

Instagram: Amesh

The Other:Brought up between Lahore and Connecticut, Nyla Hassan’s South Asian roots are deep in textile and embroidery, which can be seen in her collection titled Within the Looking Glass. Take her tie-dye dresses, for example, which are hand-dyed in India, or her ‘kurta, not a tunic top’ series which remixes the traditional details of a kurta, blending menswear-inspired details with a relaxed vibe.Instagram: The_Other 

The Other:

Brought up between Lahore and Connecticut, Nyla Hassan’s South Asian roots are deep in textile and embroidery, which can be seen in her collection titled Within the Looking Glass. Take her tie-dye dresses, for example, which are hand-dyed in India, or her ‘kurta, not a tunic top’ series which remixes the traditional details of a kurta, blending menswear-inspired details with a relaxed vibe.

Instagram: The_Other

Ayesha Sureya:One look at London-based Ayesha Sureya’s jewellery makes you realise that it’s not just jewellery but pieces of wearable art. Her collection is inspired by an amalgamation of mythology and themes with 3D art using metals. From the Kali ring, which takes inspiration from Goddess Kali—“the OG dominatrix sis”—as Sureya describes it, to “orbital resonance” ear cuff, her jewellery is her medium of telling stories from Indian religion and mythology.Instagram: Aayesha.Sureyaa 

Ayesha Sureya:

One look at London-based Ayesha Sureya’s jewellery makes you realise that it’s not just jewellery but pieces of wearable art. Her collection is inspired by an amalgamation of mythology and themes with 3D art using metals. From the Kali ring, which takes inspiration from Goddess Kali—“the OG dominatrix sis”—as Sureya describes it, to “orbital resonance” ear cuff, her jewellery is her medium of telling stories from Indian religion and mythology.

Instagram: Aayesha.Sureyaa 

Supriya Lele:For her Spring/Summer 2022 collection, designer Supriya Lele teamed up with photographer Sohrab Hura to show the eerie magic of Goa at midnight. Although based in London, this pull towards India is not new to Lele, whose previous collections are reminiscent of her desi roots, ever since her debut at the London Fashion Week in 2017. As a finalist and a joint recipient of the 2020 LVHM Prize, Lele’s vibrant and sexy clothes have found editorial love in some of the major publications worldwide.Instagram: Supriya_Lele 

Supriya Lele:

For her Spring/Summer 2022 collection, designer Supriya Lele teamed up with photographer Sohrab Hura to show the eerie magic of Goa at midnight. Although based in London, this pull towards India is not new to Lele, whose previous collections are reminiscent of her desi roots, ever since her debut at the London Fashion Week in 2017. As a finalist and a joint recipient of the 2020 LVHM Prize, Lele’s vibrant and sexy clothes have found editorial love in some of the major publications worldwide.

Instagram: Supriya_Lele 

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