Why bi-directional beauty might be more than just a fad

Approaching skincare as a lifestyle can prove beneficial not only for your skin but your overall health too

The chatter around skincare making you feel good and not just look good might, at times, be an oversimplification of self-care. But it’s also a great entry point for many who don’t understand skincare or are still navigating how to make themselves a priority. Of late, skincare, as something that makes us feel good, which, in turn, makes us look good, is a slightly new terrain. Bi-directional beauty, to be exact, is a legit way of approaching skincare as a lifestyle that can be transformative not just for your skin, but perhaps your overall health too. 

What is bi-directional beauty? 

“A bi-directional approach to skincare is along the lines of holistic skincare that dermatologists normally recommend,” explains Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder of Yavana Aesthetic Clinic. “Traditionally, we talk about nourishing your skin internally with the right foods, and externally, by using the correct skincare products.” Beauty from the inside out isn’t exactly novel. Remember how celebrities with perfect skin spoke of drinking endless bottles of water instead of the multiple treatments they now have access to? An inside-out approach is similar, where experts look at what your body needs in terms of nutrition that can affect your skin, the largest organ of your body.

“Your vitamins, amino acids, toxins, collagen and balanced diets, all play a very vital role when it comes to skin,” explains Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Ruby Tandon. “I disagree that drinking enough water can be dismissed when it comes to [healthy] skin. Our skin is the biggest organ in our body, and hence is compromised when it comes to circulation. We can’t expect our blood to flow nutrients all day if we are drinking less water. It’s definitely going to make our skin more prone to signs of ageing, or make it dry and discoloured. Drinking enough water is absolutely essential,” adds Tandon. 

More than just a fad?

A combination of nutraceuticals, supplements and smart nutrition along with topical treatments as diagnosed by a professional cannot be dismissed as a fad. “By incorporating dietary changes, lifestyle and habit changes, stress reduction techniques, exercise, high-quality skincare products and natural medicines, we can help address the underlying causes of skin issues and promote healthy skin,” says Dr Lilly-Marie Blecher, naturopathic Doctor and hief medical officer at Soneva. The wellness resort is known for its multi-directional approach to health, and it’s not a stretch to apply traditional Chinese medicine, Ayurveda, naturopathy and allopathy to take care of your skin.

“Topical products can help nourish and protect the skin, lending and providing a barrier for moisture loss,” adds Blecher. “Ingestibles like supplements, herbal formulae and nutrient-rich foods can provide the body with the building blocks necessary for healthy skin as well as detoxification. This includes the detoxification of hormonal by-products and toxins. Hydration is crucial for skin health, so drinking plenty of water and consuming foods with high water content is essential. Ensuring that there are enough minerals and electrolytes allows for the fluids ingested to properly hydrate the cells, both of the skin and the internal organs,” she says.

“One of my favourite ingredients when it comes to ingestible skincare is collagen. If you understand ageing, you will notice that as we age, not only do we get fine lines and wrinkles, but we also have aches and stiffness in our joints (more common in women than in men). If we take care of ourselves with one single ingredient like collagen, we can take care of our fitness and health, and our skin, hair and body, as the collagen naturally present in our bodies weakens with age,” says Tandon.

Should you get on the bandwagon?

Your first step is to refrain from following an influencer’s routine, no matter how promising the glowy, bouncy skin they talk about seems. Your second step is to look at your skin and your lifestyle with a pretty critical eye, and then consult experts. While most supplements are available over the counter, even at your local supermarket, they must all be consumed only under the supervision of qualified medical professionals. Your body is a delicate balance of vitamins and minerals which changes not just as you age, but also through the week, month, during hormonal cycles and more. Lifestyles play a massive role — how much sleep do you get, what quality of sleep do you get? How is your gut health? What is your circadian rhythm like? How is your mental health? 

“Your emotional state matters, and the way it affects your nerves,” says Tandon. “I think your skin is a direct reflection of your wellness within. So make sure you’re taking care of your mind along with your nutrition and food. Think of your skin like your report card of how your body is handling your internal stress. At times, we don’t pay attention to what’s going on inside our bodies. So if your skin is having an irritation, pay attention to your gut, and you might  be able to find the solution to your skin there.” 

Why is bi-directional beauty worth considering?

Bi-directional beauty is really about a larger-picture approach to yourself. “All of the internal organs have a profound effect on the appearance and health of the skin,” says Blecher. “In particular, the kidneys, liver and intestines are responsible for detoxification and hydration. If they aren’t able to keep up with the workload, the skin has to support the detoxification process. The lungs, according to Chinese medicine, are the most connected to the skin, and skin health directly reflects lung health. Genetics, early nutrition and other factors do contribute to skin health. However it is your current sex and stress hormone balance, level of toxicity, hydration and nutrient status and digestive function that most control the state of your skin.”

For most of us, the day-to-day challenges we deal with are multi-fold and often insidious. “Firstly, it is our lifestyle patterns—sleeping at odd hours and eating processed foods with high glycemic indices, high stress levels and leading sedentary lifestyles,” says Agarwal. “Frequent travel through different time zones due to one’s work, increasing levels of pollution and volatile weather changes make it worse. Poor soil quality contributes to poor food quality, and the increasing use of chemicals and hormones in certain foods impacts your system too. All these factors affect skin health negatively over a long period of time, even if you continue to use the best topical skin products and routines,” she adds.

The most effective approach to skincare will vary, depending on the individual and their unique needs and concerns. “As a naturopathic doctor and doctor of Oriental medicine, I believe that a holistic approach that addresses the root causes of skin issues through diet, lifestyle and natural treatments is often the most effective,” says Blecher. “I had a patient with Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome (PCOS). She had severe acne, hirsutism and thinning hair. I put her on 75 mg of Spironolactone, referred her for a comprehensive panchakarma, checked her food sensitivities, all regular and hormonal labs, and tested her stool for bacterial overgrowth. I then treated her with herbs for candida overgrowth and removed all food sensitivities (dairy and gluten) as well as sugar from her diet. She takes probiotics, Saccharomyces Boulardii, oregano oil capsules, as well as Di-Indole Methanol and Indole-3-Carbinol. She takes a small dose of SAMe, as well as N-Acetylcysteine. She also does castor oil packs, dry skin brushing and coffee enemas a couple of times a week to support ongoing detoxification. The protocol improved her skin by about 80 per cent. She then started getting detoxifying and ozone facials and now is better by about 95 per cent.”  

So do we depend on just nutraceuticals to solve our skin and health problems? Obviously not. While there is no one pill that fixes everything, the next best thing probably is a combination of pills (if required), a rainbow platter of nutritious and healthy food (more bright colours means more antioxidants), some exercise, eight hours of sound sleep, mindful practices through the day and a range (possibly minimal) of topical products. And oh, don’t forget sunscreen. 

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