Why make-up artist-owned beauty brands are leaving celebrity lines in the dust

While celebrity-owned brands are becoming less elusive,  those owned by make-up artists are viral and in demand. So, who wins the battle?

Ask any beauty enthusiast about their favourite make-up brands and Charlotte Tilbury, M.A.C Cosmetics, NARS, Bobbi Brown, Laura Mercier or Pat McGrath Labs are quite likely to feature on the list. A common thread running through these iconic brands? They’ve all been founded by make-up artists. 

The concept of make-up artist-owned beauty brands isn’t a novel one in the industry. However, in the last decade or so, the category has exploded globally with brands like Makeup by Mario, Danessa Myricks Beauty, Lisa Elridge Makeup, Huda Beauty, Patrick Ta Beauty, and many more joining the race. Simultaneously, a new division surfaced to further the growth of the beauty industry—celebrity-owned brands. From Rihanna to Selena Gomez, Harry Styles to Brad Pitt, and Priyanka Chopra to Deepika Padukone, every megastar’s professional roster now includes owning a beauty brand. 

The coming together of the two categories may have initially spoiled consumers for choices, but soon, a lack of elusiveness in the celebrity-owned beauty segment has led consumers to experience celebrity-beauty-brand fatigue. Make-up artists’ beauty brands, on the other hand, continue to enjoy substantial growth in terms of both financial success and popularity (read: virality), courtesy of inclusiveness and user-friendliness. Would it be fair to then say that they could overshadow celebrity-owned beauty brands—besides a handful like Rare Beauty and Fenty Beauty—in the time to come? We attempt to find out more.

The rise and rise of make-up artist-owned brands

M.A.C Cosmetics launched in 1984, Bobbi Brown in 1991, NARS in 1994, Laura Mercier in 1996, and Anastasia Beverly Hills in 1997. The segment, however, became mainstream only in the 2010s. Pat McGrath, the go-to make-up artist for celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, Madonna, and Taylor Swift, launched her eponymous beauty line in 2015, which, by 2019, was a US$1 billion-company and the best-selling brand at Selfridges. Mario Dedivanovic, a Sephora executive-turned-make-up artist for Kim Kardashian, introduced Makeup by Mario in 2020, and acquired its first-ever funding at a US$200 million-valuation within three years of its inception. Established in 2013, beauty blogger and make-up artist Huda Kattan’s Huda Beauty received an investment from TSG Consumer Partners, leading to a US$1.2 billion-valuation in 2017. Charlotte Tilbury’s make-up line fast-tracked her journey to becoming a billionaire in less than a decade. 

Closer home, acclaimed make-up artists like Namrata Soni and Bianca Louzado—who work with celebrities Sonam Kapoor and Rani Mukejree, and Sania Mirza and Manushi Chillar respectively—have instituted their respective beauty lines, Simply Nam and Code Beauty. “After having worked closely with several clients for nearly two decades, I gained invaluable insights into the unique challenges and needs of Indian women. We started with an unusual choice—a make-up remover—considering the gap in the market, and that’s where my expertise comes into play. Every formulation [at Simply Nam] ensures we cater to diverse skin tones and climates unique to India.” Co-founder Hanna-Strömgren Khan was piqued by the idea of a ‘Made for India’ brand, and having the prowess of a seasoned artist like Soni sealed the deal for her. “Choosing someone who ticks the boxes in terms of passion, ethics, and skills is the best thing an entrepreneur can do.”

Louzado launched Code Beauty in 2020 in light of the growing demand towards hygiene and sanitisation products that were almost unavailable in the Indian market then. “We launched with cosmetic sanitising sprays and wipes and soap cleansers for make-up brushes so that users and artists could use make-up guilt-free, without compromising on hygiene.” Soon, she added a range of high-quality make-up brushes to her product portfolio, also atypical for an Indian brand. “Each brush is handcrafted by artisans in Japan, making sure that only the best tools make their way to your kits.”

Tinge and Arēm Beauty by make-up artists Sabrina Suhail and Reema Patil respectively are lesser-known beauty brands in this space. Suhail observed a dearth of homegrown brands offering customised make-up, which prompted her to launch Tinge. “In an industry constantly trying to cater to the new-age fashion of cosmetics, vegan and handmade products were almost non-existent in India. I had the education required to change this, and therefore started Tinge.” Considering the unique needs of the Indian market, the make-up artist-led-brand space still seems highly untapped in the country. 

The promise of expertise

According to celebrity hair and make-up artist Florian Hurel, make-up artists impart their hands-on experience, along with their technical knowledge of diverse skin types, tones, and concerns when they create products. “Such products address real-world needs and don’t just capitalise on fame. Celebrity brands may have the marketing power, but make-up artist-owned brands offer substance, expertise, and authenticity.” Ria Biyani, a beauty enthusiast and luxury make-up consumer, concurs, “Make-up artists are not just predicting or following trends; they’re creating products they know will perform. That on-job experience and learning reflect in the formulas.” On the other hand, “Celebrity-owned beauty brands tend to focus more on branding, marketing, and lifestyle, which can be fun too, but they don’t always have the same depth of expertise when it comes to formulation and usability [of the products].”

In India, expert recommendations carry significant weight, points out Twinkle Behl, beauty and personal care analyst, Mintel Reports India. “According to Mintel research, consumers are more likely to trust brands validated by reliable institutes or experts. This is reflected in 43 per cent of consumers who believe brand claims should be verified by credible sources. Additionally, 24 per cent of Indian consumers state they get information about beauty and personal care products based on recommendations from professionals,” further reinforcing the value that make-up artists bring to the table. In concurrence, beauty content creator Shalini Kutti shares, “Many make-up artist-founded brands are widely used by other make-up artists in the industry, which instantly makes me trust the brand more. And, when they also focus on packaging—think Danessa Myricks or Isamaya Ffrench—my interest spikes by 100 times.”

“I would by far trust a make-up artist-owned brand over a lip kit by Kylie Jenner’s brand,” says Louzado. “As key users of make-up products, artists understand the skin inside-out. They’re also better equipped to judge what’s missing in the market. For example, Pat McGrath was one of the first to introduce a serum-based foundation since she understands the need for a luminous foundation on the runway, given her backstage experience.” According to Louzado, a knowledge of key techniques, colour wheel, skin tones, and concepts like primary and secondary colours, exclusive to a make-up artist, gives their brands an edge over their competitors, including celebrity-owned ones. A Mintel research reveals that 25 per cent of consumers agree that it is difficult to find make-up for Indian skin tones, and 55 per cent are willing to pay more for make-up products that work for different skin types/tones. 

Why make-up artist-owned brands could lead the race

Currently, YSL Beauty is trapped in controversies on TikTok and Instagram due to its newest blushes, specifically the shade ‘Lavender Lust’, which is as pale as white and is barely evident on any complexion. This incident serves as yet another testament to the dire need for command over the nitty-gritty while creating make-up. A make-up artist’s aptitude addresses exactly that. “In markets like India, where consumers are becoming increasingly beauty-savvy, make-up artist-founded brands can play a crucial role in not only educating consumers about product usage and benefits but also improve the experience of beauty locally,” believes Behl.

Gen Z are the biggest beauty consumers today, and they too seem to be in favour of the idea of using products by make-up artist-owned brands. Donna Davy, the make-up artist for Netflix’s series Euphoria, launched Half Magic soon after the show amassed bountiful traction for its beauty looks—the brand’s colourful pressed glitter eyeshadows, sparkling lip glosses, and gem adornments are hot-sellers among young beauty consumers. Similarly, Violette Serrat’s Violette FR, Gucci Westman’s Westman Atelier, and Bobbi Brown’s Jones Road are crawling up the competition swiftly. “The current generation is bombarded with marketing messages and often finds it hard to trust brands. However, as discerning consumers, they want authenticity and transparency, and when they see a professional make-up artist behind a brand, it gives them confidence that the products are genuinely good enough,” says Ströghem-Khan.

While beauty brands backed by celebrities and industry conglomerates will always have an upper hand in terms of marketing budgets, churning out products frequently and accessibility, Biyani highlights the wide possibility of adaptability and versatility in the case of make-up artist-owned brands. “Make-up artist-owned brands, even if smaller than their counterparts, can be super nimble and quick to adapt. They are often more connected with their customers because they speak with them. Winning over a loyal community is something that the big players might miss out on.” Hurel adds, “Such brands can pivot strategies quickly in response to [any] market changes and trends. Perhaps, even carve a niche market for themselves.”

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