Why do essential oils get so much hate?

Experts share their insights on what these oils can, and cannot do for you, plus where all the fear-mongering comes from

“Relax, I have an oil for that.” There is a practised, almost authoritative ease to how this line is delivered, usually in response to any skincare concern—any, really—as the miracle, genie-in-a-bottle solution. However, what many forget to mention is the invisible asterisk looming over these purported benefits, from concentration concerns to the phototoxicity of certain formulas. It doesn’t help that these oils have been co-opted by the Karens of the internet during the pandemic—serving up more ammo for meme culture on anti-vaxxers on a silver platter. So can essential oils ever reverse this erosion of distrust or will they soon have all the credibility of those peddling snake oil? We asked the experts, and here’s what we learned.

What are essential oils and what can they do for you?

It pays to note that the 21st century doesn’t have a monopoly on essential oils. The usage of this elixir can be traced back to ancient times when they were added to DIY concoctions for their medicinal benefits. The ones that you’ll find lining drugstore aisles now have been distilled from the roots, seeds and leaves of a plant to create a highly concentrated extract that can either be inhaled or applied topically on the skin.

As a consequence, essential oils find a crucial place in aromatherapy, where they are used to address a wide array of physical and psychological concerns. Veteran aromatherapist Dr Blossom Kocchar explains, “Our skin is constantly exposed to the hazards of the environment, including heat, dust, pollution and humidity, which is why the skin needs to be nourished from outside as well as within. The penetrative properties of essential oils help stimulate blood circulation and boost cell regeneration.”

With a strong profile of anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-viral properties, the benefits are many—as are your choices. Looking to treat skin concerns like dryness, irritation and burns? Dash to the nearest drugstore for lavender oil. Last-minute acne before a major event? Tea tree oil is your only true friend. Need a quick brain refresh after hours of Zoom meetings? Sniff on peppermint oil to slice through the sluggishness and boost alertness.

With a strong profile of anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-viral properties, the benefits are many—as are your choices. Looking to treat skin concerns like dryness, irritation and burns? Dash to the nearest drugstore for lavender oil. Last-minute acne before a major event? Tea tree oil is your only true friend. Need a quick brain refresh after hours of Zoom meetings? Sniff on peppermint oil to slice through the sluggishness and boost alertness.

So why are essential oils getting such a bad rap?

If these little vials can treat almost every concern precipitated by our modern lifestyles, why do they get so much hate? The answer lies in the lack of regulation regarding how essential oils are marketed. If one brand can decide that it can cure life-threatening ailments, another might want to convince you to trade over-the-counter medicine for a whiff of a miracle oil. However, what most choose to gloss over is that these oils aren’t universally applicable for all ailments or, for that matter, everyone.

Dr Madhuri Agarwal, noted dermatologist and founder of Mumbai-based Yavana Aesthetics Clinic, believes that false claims have inflated the general perception of what essential oils can do. For instance, despite tea tree oil being brandished as a miracle acne saviour, she has observed her patients’ skin conditions worsening when the oil is used in high concentrations. “Essential oils are also popularly known as allergens and photosensitisers. People with atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, rosacea and irritable skin need to use essential oils with caution after a meticulous patch test,” she cautions. The unsubstantiated claims that essential oils can be used to treat diseases should be taken with a pinch of salt, advises Dr Kocchar. “At best, they can work as a complementary treatment to deal with mental stress or anxiety during the illness by being used as a calming treatment for the patient. They can never be used as an alternative for science-backed medications,” she says.

The list of people who need to steer clear of these oils also includes pregnant women, those following homoeopathy and those with known allergies. The photosensitivity of certain oils is also a pain point for experts. Dr Agarwal explains, “Citrus oils, such as orange and lemon, are notorious for their phototoxicity due to their extraction process. When applied in the hours of the AM, these oils can react with sunlight to cause burns and blisters. This makes them a no-no if you are stepping out in the sun after application, or looking to treat extensive sun exposure, such as a tan.” If you are still looking to use up that vial of citrus oil you’ve been gifted, she recommends opting for a vigilant patch test first and checking that the concentration is below 0.5 per cent.

Natural = better? Not always

So why aren’t we speaking about these side effects more frequently? In the hands of the enterprising marketer, cautionary caveats can often be brushed aside in favour of leaning into our hot-footed pursuit of all things natural.

Dr Agarwal rues, “Underneath all the noise about all-natural skincare products is the simple fact that anything going into a bottle has an expiry date, which is why it has to be chemically synthesised to maintain its integrity. It is also difficult to ensure the same kind of quality consistently with natural ingredients as they are influenced by changes in the environment, seasons and soil quality. Ingredients derived from natural resources are therefore not easy to formulate and can lead to alterations in results and safety.”

Why do skincare companies then continue to add these ingredients to product formulas? Meher Jadhwani, founder of The Dearist and certified organic skincare formulator, believes that the answer may be rooted in consumer behaviour. She explains, “The cult-favourite Biologique Recherche Masque Vivant does not have a pleasing smell but people still continue to buy it because of its efficacy. It appears that luxury skincare can still get away with fragrance-free formulae, while products made on a mass scale need to smell good, or should not have an unpleasant smell, in order to ring in a sale.”

However, for her own line-up of conscious products, she demurs from featuring essential oils in the formulation. “As pure essential oils are extremely expensive and rare to find, most companies use natural-identical formulae that are essentially synthetic oils. They are not suitable for therapeutic benefits and merely lend aroma to the product. We have not yet identified a manufacturer we can trust with the purity of essential oils, which is why we steer clear of them and allow our products to have their own natural fragrance instead,” says the Mumbai-based founder.

If you’re still tempted to have an array of oils lined up on your dresser, cosmetic chemist Ginger King perhaps knows how you feel. “Skincare is a sensorial experience,” she says, adding, “When we can experience how the texture of a product feels and how it smells, we are more likely to use it again as compared to unscented products.” With a few precautions, you might find a way to make them work for you as well. “Essential oils should never be used directly as they can irritate the skin. Depending on skin sensitivity, essential oils should be kept at a low percentage—0.3 per cent is ideal but should never cross five per cent,” she cautions.

Dr Kocchar seconds the sentiment. “While purchasing any essential oil, make sure it is properly packed in a dark-coloured bottle and that the aroma is not rancid. You can also choose to test its safety once by applying a drop on a tissue, cloth or paper to ensure that it doesn’t leave a stain behind,” she concludes.

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