Why are young Indians afraid to admit they got Botox?

While a number of actors and influencers have opted for Botox, not many have been vocal about it. We decipher the causes and impact of the stealth around Botox

Several reports spilling predictions on the ruling beauty trends for 2024 have suggested that pro-ageing will take over anti-ageing. As empowering as that sounds, numbers tell a rather different story. According to The International Market Analysis Research and Consulting Group, the global anti-ageing market size, which reached US$71.6 billion in 2023, is projected to expand to US$120.4 billion by 2032, at a compound annual growth rate of 5.8 per cent between 2024 and 2032. 

There are roughly ten common anti-ageing treatments that are easily accessible at a dermatologist’s office, such as Botox, dermal fillers, facelifts, and invasive facials among others. Out of the lot, Botox and dermal fillers—two techniques that employ injectables—bring about expeditious and obvious changes in your physical appearance. Think vanished wrinkles and fine lines, plumper skin, and a more rotund face. But does it always necessarily take off age from your face, as it is supposed to? Debatable. The newest entrant to the league is baby Botox—an understated version of Botox, that is being actively opted for by Gen-Z and millennials. In 2023, the oldest members of the Gen-Z cohort turned 26, but they’re already big on anti-ageing. And, we’re not just talking about SPF, retinol serums, and collagen supplements here. 

A 14-year-old beauty content creator (yes, she’ll turn only 15 this year), created a video titled ‘Things I do to slow down ageing as a 14yo’ whereas another Zoomer documented her day at the aesthetician’s clinic to get baby Botox—found on an account that goes by the name @UpkeepBeauty on TikTok. While those in their 30s, 40s and 50s have started embracing the idea of ageing, or perhaps, are at least being vocal about their in-office and at-home indulgences to delay and defy ageing (Selena Gomez, we’re looking at you), the Gen-Z and zillennials seem to be in a different spin. With over 10.4 billion views, Botox is a hit on TikTok, the biggest beauty platform for Gen-Z today. And therefore, the global Botox market—valued at US$7.23 billion in 2022 and US$7.49 billion in 2023—is expected to reach US$10.62 billion in 2030, at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.1 per cent. 

So while we tend to turn a blind eye to the discrepancies associated with getting procedures like Botox done, the biggest victims here include impressionable young minds. We speak to people from the beauty industry to make sense of the hush-hush about anti-ageing ‘tweakments’ and their perils. 

What is preventative Botox?

“Botox—short for botulinum toxin—is a purified protein derived from the bacterium Clostridium botulinum. When used in small, controlled doses, botulinum toxin has therapeutic and cosmetic applications,” begins Dr Jaishree Sharad, a Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Rules. “The most well-known brand of botulinum toxin used for cosmetic purposes is Botox, but there are other brands as well, such as Dysport and Xeomin.”

Botox is commonly used by people looking to diminish the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, states Dr Kiran Sethi, a New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Sense. Explaining how it works, she furthers, “Botox essentially blocks nerve signals in the muscles it is injected into; the active ingredient in Botox temporarily prevents muscle contractions. The injection contains a highly diluted form of the toxin. It is injected into muscles to temporarily paralyse them, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. The benefits include a smoother and more youthful appearance, especially in areas like the forehead, between the eyebrows, and around the eyes. In some cases, it can be used to relieve muscle tightness and spasms to elevate pain. This could be in the trapezium or jaw muscles.”

Preventative Botox, as the name suggests, works as a prophylactic measure to avoid the occurrence of wrinkles, fine lines, and crow’s feet even before they start to appear on the skin. In terms of execution, things are not very different from Botox. Except, the doses administered are smaller and more strategic. Also called baby Botox, preventative Botox is slowly and steadily becoming a hit amongst those in their early 20s and 30s. However, opting for it can be a slippery slope. Many medical professionals around the globe blame an early-on subscription to Botox to be the prime reason for accelerated ageing. “Despite no conclusive evidence that preventative Botox leads to faster ageing, it’s essential to strike a balance and not overuse cosmetic procedures. Natural ageing is a complex process, and excessive interventions may have unforeseen consequences,” warns Sethi.

What makes the young go off the record?

It’s no secret that what is  trending in the West takes its own time to become a thing of normal in India. Today, due to their non-surgical and non-invasive nature, Botox and fillers are at an all-time high in India too. GlobalData’s report, ‘India Aesthetic Injectable Procedures Count by Segments and Forecast to 2023’ reveals that India accounts for 1 per cent of the Asia-Pacific region’s injectable market revenue. Moreover, the injectables market in India is poised to grow at a CAGR of 5 per cent till 2030.

Despite these numbers, the general population was (and perhaps still is) oblivious to the world of ‘tweakments’ and treatments. For the longest time, people continued to believe that celebrities in their 40s and 50s look like 20-year-olds solely because of towering access to healthier lifestyles. However, none of them came out openly about the in-office (head-to-toe) procedures they have undergone, or the use of steroids, a decade ago. Would having spilt these secrets take away the X-factor of these celebrities? Yes.

Today, awareness and disposable income are both at their peak. It’s not just your favourite Bollywood and Hollywood celebrities, but also the influencers you follow on social media for their “relatability” who are opting for treatments like Botox. Again, not every influencer is talking about Botox as candidly as what they ate for breakfast or wore for a grocery run. “The pressure to maintain a flawless appearance without ‘revealing’ any cosmetic enhancements always makes it difficult for someone to admit they’ve done Botox,” shares Tasheen Rahimtoola, founder of Taste Retreat and a social media personality.

Rahimtoola throws light on the debate of being authentic versus desirable. “Due to evolving societal norms, there has been a change in the perception towards Botox. Today, there’s more conversation about Botox, albeit, not about admitting that one’s gotten it done,” she begins. Social media throws pictures of beautiful, “perfect-looking” models that coax us into believing what the ultimate personification of being desirable is. However, social media has also started celebrating natural beauty and authenticity. “Social media marketing talk has set an unsaid rule: you are beautiful, but you are more beautiful if you’re all natural. People are always having this chat about whether one has gotten any cosmetic surgeries done to look the way they are, which has instilled a resentment to admit getting work done for the lips, under eyes, and the likes.” In concurrence with Rahimtoola, Sharad says, “Societal beauty standards often place value on natural beauty and ageing gracefully, and mock the use of Botox or fillers.”

“I know a lot of people who have undergone some or the other treatment, but don’t necessarily wish to talk about it openly,” says Rahimtoola, “and I feel like that is fine, it is their choice because not everyone is comfortable talking about their insecurities. In our circle, there’s an unspoken rule to fit into this mould of the illusion of beauty, but beauty is also supposed to be natural. I feel like this brings a fear of judgement and plays on one’s mind and stops them from opening up.”

Beauty influencer and founder of Wearfied, Aanam Chashmawala, has been transparent about getting lip fillers. So much so, that she documented the process for her followers too. “I have always been curious about how my upper lip would look if it would be fuller. So, it was a vanity thing for me to opt for lip fillers. Also, because my job demands constant exposure to the camera. However, some people do have deep-rooted insecurities, and such tweakments can play confidence boosters. For instance, not the lip fillers, but the under eyes were done due to my insecurities about deep-set eyes, dark circles, and under-eye bags.” 

However, are celebrities and influencers obligated to spill the beans? “No one owes anything to anyone,” opines Chashmawala, “especially because there’s so much shame thrown upon women for their bodies’ imagery.” But, if you’re a public figure, things are different. “If you are selling a product on the premise of your treated skin, or trying to portray that you’ve aged gracefully, that is just unethical advertising,” says the influencer and entrepreneur. “I started my blog with the #TheRealGirl as I wanted to bridge the gap between glossy magazine papers and the real woman. To date, I’ve stuck by that; I am passionate about transparency so I will share my experiences and experiments, even if it includes fillers or even my miscarriage—that’s my way of giving back to my community.” 

The caveats you simply can’t sleep on

Overindulging in treatments such as baby Botox can be as sabotaging as self-stigmatising them. “Botox is generally considered safe as long as it is administered by trained professionals, though there can be risks and side-effects. Overuse or improper administration can lead to complications. Honestly, getting Botox too early may not always be necessary, as natural ageing processes vary among individuals. The only peril would be if you get it for the wrong reasons, such as it being trendy (like Barbie Botox had the potential to become!),” cites Sethi. 

“Although it is an individual choice and growingly popular in the West, I personally don’t inject young people [who are] in their late teens and early 20s,” admits Sharad. “Seeking cosmetic procedures at a young age may be influenced by societal pressures or unrealistic beauty standards or may even lead to body dysmorphic disorders. It’s important for individuals to consider their motivations and prioritise overall well-being and self-esteem. Besides, there is a possibility that regular, frequent use of Botox starting at such a young age may potentially lead to the development of tolerance, where the effectiveness of the treatment diminishes over time. This could result in the need for higher doses or more frequent injections.” The medical expert furthers, “Botox primarily addresses dynamic wrinkles caused by muscle movement. However, the natural ageing process involves factors beyond muscle contractions, such as collagen loss, skin laxity, and damage caused due to environmental factors. Preventative Botox does not address these aspects comprehensively.”

It is probably a given that it is essential to be authentic with oneself about why one would opt for a cosmetic procedure. Hansika Kapoor, a psychologist at Monk Prayogshala shares, “If it is driven primarily to please others, or to keep up appearances, it may be worth reflecting on whether the motivation aligns with one’s personal values. True authenticity in cosmetic procedures comes from a place of self-empowerment and self-acceptance, where you make informed choices, which enhance your confidence and well-being.”

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