Why are we so scared of ageing?

That the currency of a woman’s personality and identity often boils down to their appearance perhaps explains the growing fear associated with ageing

Would you believe it if we told you that someone spends a staggering $2 million—or ₹ 16.5 crores—of his own accord, every year, merely to preserve his youth? As improbable as it may seem, that’s exactly what American techpreneur and author Bryan Johson has been doing for a few years now. Johnson, who claims to age 99 per cent slower than 20-year-olds today, consumes approximately 111 pills every day to defy ageing. If you’re wondering how far the world can go to pigeonhole ageing, this is just the beginning.

Today, the anti-ageing market constitutes a major chunk of the beauty industry worldwide. According to a report, the global market for anti-ageing products, services and devices, which stands at a present valuation of $60,764.4 million, is poised to touch a whopping $1,01,843.4 million by 2034, at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.3 per cent. Speaking of India, where the use of botox, fillers, LED and microcurrent devices, collagen supplements, and a hundred serums and moisturisers containing retinol, ceramides and the likes is still at a fresh stage, the said market is forecasted to expand at a CAGR of 9 per cent between 2023 and 2028. Nykaa, one of India’s largest omnichannel beauty destinations, throws over 4,380 product recommendations at you if you search for the term “anti-ageing”, making it one of the richest categories on the platform, both in terms of number of Stock Keeping Units (SKUs) and their selling prices.

When it comes to pricing, the anti-ageing market is not for the faint-hearted. For instance, Dior’s limited-edition L’Or de Vie La Crème was priced at $7,500, La Prairie’s Platinum Rare Haute-Rejuvenation Face Cream retails for $1,690 and LYMA’s Laser Starter Kit—a staple in the vanities of Hailey Bieber and Gwyneth Paltrow—is sold at $2,695. All of these products endorse anti-ageing benefits, and a price-sensitive market like India is also investing superfluously in them, as they sell a dream—one of making youth imperishable. But, why is everyone so terrified of ageing? We attempt to find out.

Why is ageing looked down upon? 

The idea of growing old is largely accompanied by a sombre narrative—wrinkles and fine lines are frowned upon, professional opportunities begin to shrink, health takes a hit, and the ‘cool’ or ‘desirable’ factor fades away. “Ageing has always been associated with a decline, diminishing on all fronts; it is rooted in the human fear of death. There’s the inevitable fear of losing our physical abilities and appearance, plus the loss of independence, loved ones, social status (in some cases), and the life we’ve built for ourselves. Moreover, society has always glorified youth, and the beauty and desirability associated with it,” says Antara Kundu, who leads marketing and growth at Quest Retail Private Limited, the group that brings beauty brands like The Body Shop, Kiehl’s, Anastasia Beverly Hills, and Kylie Cosmetics to India.

“The advertising industry has hammered ageing into boxes like ‘unfulfilling’, ‘not sexy’, ‘not cool’, ‘grumpy’, and ‘life is over’,” says Geetarsh Kaur, a model and social media personality. While traditional media and conventional beauty standards still impact our interpretation of ageing, beauty editor and author Vasudha Rai opines that society is also responsible for the negative connotations associated with it. “It’s so ironic that today, in a society where casteism, colourism and racism are largely opposed, ageism still flourishes. In my opinion, ageism is the only lasting ‘ism’.” Luxury context creator Sonam Babani adds, “History has a key role to play in how we perceive ageing too. Figures like Cleopatra have propagated ways to slow down ageing, look young, look beautiful, and preserve youth, perhaps, because of its novelty.”

Is ageing tougher on women?

The currency of a woman’s personality and identity, at most if not all times, boils down to how they look. The pressure to maintain the physical appearance of a 20-something-year-old is persistent even when a woman turns 40. Kaur feels that society expects women to dress, act, and talk a certain way after hitting a certain age in life, which could take away their sense of self-esteem, liberty, and self-expression.

“I was very fearful of growing older; I hated early signs of ageing like my dark circles after a sleepless night with the baby or the sprinkling of early greys. I wish there was someone to guide me when I was younger,” says Mukta Singh, a model and social media personality. Rai also states she was far more worried about ageing while younger, than today. “Nobody likes to see changes in their skin. But these changes can occur at any age, like experiencing acne when you become a teenager. As I grew older (and wiser), ‘ageing’ just became a non-issue for me.” She, however, agrees that ageing does bring about a sense of fizzling relevance. While Babani wishes to gain the experiences that come with age, she, too, wishes she could look young forever. “Physical ageing isn’t something I’m still comfortable with,” she shares.

“I didn’t pay much attention to ageing until my thirties, when I began to notice subtle signs of getting older—a bit of sagging skin, wrinkles on my forehead, and my neck losing some of its firmness. I faced these changes head-on. If something bothered me, I addressed it with treatment; if not, I accepted it,” shares New Delhi-based dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi. “However, prevention was key for me because feeling like myself was important. So, whether it involved laser facials, radio frequency therapy, or skin boosters, I would undergo these treatments to prevent signs of ageing that I wasn’t appreciating, but never out of fear. I approached it scientifically and logically, drawing on my medical knowledge and experience,” she furthers.

“Age-linked changes in how I look was the first time I felt confronted with my fear of ageing—the first grey hair surfacing in my late-twenties felt fairly shattering. And this was a deep, impulsive reaction despite the fact that I’ve seen my parents grey gracefully,” admits Kundu. Kaur, who got married six months ago, confesses receiving comments on her white mane. “I was asked if I’ll start colouring my grey and white hair, now that I’m married. But, for me, my hair is a part of my identity. Why should I change anything about it because of a big event in my life?”

Is the celebration of the anti-ageism theory that society and the media have set forth only confined to tokenism? We certainly haven’t accepted how ageing manifests itself naturally. 

Why does Gen Z want to age like fine wine?

In the past few years, however, appearing youthful isn’t an aspiration anymore; it has turned into an obsession of sorts. So much so that even teenagers are chalking out elaborate beauty regimes to circumvent ageing. A couple of months ago, videos of 10- and 12-year-olds slapping expensive skincare products on their skin to prevent signs of ageing were going viral on TikTok. ‘How old do I look?’ filters and trends on Instagram and TikTok further fuel the insecurities of the Gen Z, who comprise the majority of the user base of these social media applications. “The media—including social media, magazines, and advertisements—plays a significant role in perpetuating ideals, and showcasing flawless, airbrushed faces that set unrealistic standards for ageing gracefully,” says Sethi. “Being glued to social media means we are constantly comparing ourselves to edited images, leading to an increased dissatisfaction with our own appearance,” she adds.

While it could be possible that Gen Z is ageing poorly and speedily than the previous generations due to certain lifestyle triggers, the trepidation about ageing isn’t something that one slots for their adolescence. “The prevalence of baby botox and anti-ageing skincare regimens among teenagers is a testament to this fear. Since Gen Z is so influenced by social media, they’re taking in content for a much older audience and applying it to themselves,” explains Sethi, “There is this misconception that it’s the same as financial investing—the sooner you invest, the better. But when you’re young, your skin is healthier and doesn’t need the same treatment as someone in their late thirties, forties or even older.” We are living in an age where body or skin dysmorphia is a reality and growing exponentially, opines Suchitra Ghosh, a beauty content creator. “The constant narrative around ‘anti-ageing’ is further driving young, impressionable minds closer to being victims of the same.”

“My mom always taught me less is more, which is what I followed growing up. Today, Gen Z and Gen Alpha have already begun using chemical actives. These things do come with repercussions, right? They might touch their prime very soon,” says Babani. What Gen Z isn’t cognisant of is how subscribing to such youth-boosting products, treatments, and services could also accelerate ageing visually. For instance, while baby botox may plump up your already bouncy, collagen-packed cheeks in your early twenties, it will also overemphasise every fine line that begins to appear in your thirties. 

A survey by Statista found that over a third of Gen Z participants approximately spend between US$21 and US$50 on a single skincare product. The study also revealed that Gen Z is the top consumer of skincare products among all generations that participated, leading millennials, Gen X, and baby boomers. However, as of now, the oldest of Gen Z hasn’t even turned 30, highlighting a pressing need to approach the harmful glamourisation of looking youthful with a pinch of salt.

Why must you embrace ageing?

“From crash diets to excessive indulgence in treatments, there are many ways in which the fear of ageing can take a toll on your physical health. Mentally, it can also leave you with anxiety or depression. So, it is important to embrace ageing, because whether we do that or not, age will definitely embrace us,” says Rai. “Recognising it’s a privilege, and a natural process has helped me so much,” she adds.

“For me, ageing naturally means respecting my life experience, and recognising the fact that I’m happier, more content, and much more at ease with myself now that I’m turning 40, than when I was in my twenties. Embracing ageing naturally has ultimately freed me to feel comfortable in my skin, and that’s something I value immensely,” shares Kundu.

Sethi cautions us to read between the lines, whenever we come across any information peddled by the beauty industry, for most of it is targeted towards encashing your vulnerabilities. “Marketing campaigns often target insecurities about ageing, promising to reverse the signs of ageing and restore youthfulness. While these products and treatments may provide temporary solutions and might not be all that bad, they also perpetuate the idea that ageing is something to be feared and avoided at all costs,” cites the dermatologist. “Frankly, the sheer amount of companies selling skincare and supplements, even to girls as young as 12, is impacting young minds as well.”

“I think the main thing is how you portray an older person. By ‘you’, here, I mean brands, social media influencers and so forth,” says Sethi, pointing out a need for a raw and authentic portrayal of ageing. “Encouraging young people to embrace their natural beauty and value themselves beyond their physical appearance can alleviate the fear of ageing. Reducing the reliance on social media won’t hurt and changing your content feed to items more self-affirming and positive is useful. Also, educating individuals about the realities of ageing and what really happens to the human body can help,” she furthers. Meanwhile, Babani believes that every individual can have their own ways to embrace ageing, albeit, doing so and making peace with the unavoidable is key.

“Fear of ageing can suck the life out of us and rob us of the present moment. Very avoidable indeed,” concludes Singh.

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