What makes make-up waterproof?

There’s more that distinguishes the waterproof variant of a product from its ordinary counterpart than just the add-on ‘waterproof’ tag—it’s the formulation. Experts help us chalk out a primer on the subject

Whether it’s smudged mascara and kohl that leaves you with racoon eyes, a foundation that has moved terribly on the skin, making it look patchy and muddy, or bleeding lipstick that looks anything but pleasant, when make-up smears, the outcome is simply not great. Enter: waterproof make-up. In the initial stages of innovations, the scope of waterproof make-up was restricted to mascara. Today from smudge-proof base make-up to waterproof kajals and eyeliners and even lipsticks that stay put for over 12 hours, the availability of make-up products that are (almost) impermeable to water—or sweat and humidity—has proliferated abundantly. 

However, there’s more that distinguishes the waterproof variant of a product from its ordinary counterpart than just a change in the colour of the tube or the add-on ‘waterproof’ tag—it’s the formulation. It’s the addition (or subtraction) of certain ingredients combined with a few other potential alterations in the formulation of the usual products, that make it waterproof and smudge-proof. Although this category of make-up products is apt for the current monsoon season and humid weather otherwise, it also comes with its set of caveats, owing to the chemicals involved as well as the struggle to then remove it. We reach out to experts in the space to understand how waterproof make-up is engineered and how you can choose the best ones for your skin.

How is waterproof make-up made?

Cosmetic chemist and founder of Beauty Stat, Ron Robinson, who is also the chemist for Hailey Bieber-founded Rhode, informs that waterproof make-up is formulated to not break down or move, even when exposed to water (humidity, rain and tears included). “Waterproof make-up contains water-resistant film formers which help the pigments adhere to the skin and/or contain pigments that are treated with hydrophobic ingredients that help them repel water. And, that is why waterproof make-up can stay in place.”

Getting into the details of the ingredients or the aforementioned film formers, Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad shares, “Film-forming agents such as silicones or polymers that create a flexible, water-resistant film on the skin and help the make-up adhere to the skin’s surface and provide a barrier against water penetration are common ingredients in waterproof make-up. Additionally, pigments used in waterproof make-up are often hydrophobic, meaning they repel water and are less likely to dissolve or smear when in contact with water or other liquids.” Along the same lines, Robinson adds, “The common ingredients that help make the product wear longer include Trimethylsiloxysilicate and Phenyl Trimethicone.” Sharad says that certain waterproof make-up products may also comprise oils and waxes as they create a protective layer that prevents water from seeping into the make-up, thereby boosting the water-repellent properties of the product. 

How is waterproof make-up tested?

“Waterproof make-up is tested either through vitro studies using materials/equipment that duplicate human wear and/or on humans themselves where they apply and wear the products to confirm that it stays in place,” says Robinson. Meanwhile, Sharad delves into what each medium entails. “In vitro testing, the make-up product is subjected to controlled laboratory conditions to assess its water resistance. The product is typically applied to a substrate, such as a glass slide or a specialised testing surface, and then exposed to water or moisture. The resistance to smudging, running and colour bleeding is then observed and evaluated,” shares the dermatologist, “whereas panel testing and wear testing involve actual humans trying the make-up and testing its resistance. While human volunteers apply the waterproof make-up and participate in activities that simulate real-life conditions in the former method, individuals wear the make-up under normal or simulated conditions for an extended period which allows the manufacturer to assess the product’s durability, resistance to water, and overall performance over time in the latter method.”

To test the durability of a waterproof make-up product at your end, when you’re out to shop for one, “swatch a product on the hand and after a few seconds, wipe it with a tissue or even try to run water over the hand and rub it. If the product is waterproof, it will still be intact on the hand,” says Leiya Phinao Ningshen, national artist, M.A.C Cosmetics India.

Can regular products fill in?

Not really, believes Phinao Ningshen. “Regular make-up does resist water, but will eventually move over a short period of time unlike waterproof products that can stay put all day,” says the make-up artist. “Regular make-up products don’t contain the film formers and/or water-resistant qualities that waterproof make-up does,” adds Robinson. “However, if you want to use your current make-up and try to make it waterproof, you can use specific make-up primers and/or make-up setting sprays or powders to help keep it in place during wet/humid conditions.”

Agarwal also highlights the difference between waterproof and water-resistant make-up products at this point. “No, they’re not exactly the same thing—water-resistant make-up is lighter than waterproof make-up.” But that’s not all. “When wearing waterproof make-up, you could be slapped in the face by ocean waves without worrying about your make-up moving,” New York-based celebrity makeup artist Natalia Thomas toldReal Simple. “If you’re sitting poolside and might incur a splash or two, but don't plan on taking a dip, water-resistant make-up should do just fine.”

Tips to choose waterproof make-up product

Robinson believes that ingredients used in the making of waterproof make-up products are generally safe, though, consumers might want to do a patch test first, to steer clear of adverse reactions. Agarwal has a similar take on the safety of waterproof make-up products. “It can be applied for short periods; however, avoid using it daily and for very long hours as such products usually do not contain oils and conditioners (to make the make-up last longer) and are drying and irritating for the skin and eyes. Having said that, the quantity of water-resisting ingredients used in the make-up is very minuscule and are not absorbed as easily to cause actual harm.”

Sharad recommends watching out for ingredients such as fragrances, preservatives, colourants and synthetic dyes, oils and emollients (in case you have breakout-prone skin) and heavy metals. “Opt for fragrance-free or hypoallergenic waterproof make-up products and if you have known sensitivities or prefer to avoid specific preservatives, look for waterproof make-up products labelled as ‘paraben-free’ or ‘preservative-free’,” suggests the dermatologist. “Some waterproof make-up products may contain trace amounts of heavy metals like lead, arsenic or mercury, which are potential contaminants and can have adverse health effects when absorbed by the body over time. Therefore, opt for known brands that adhere to stringent quality control measures and safety regulations,” she adds.

The biggest challenge with any waterproof make-up product is to take it off. “Since such products are meant to resist water for a long period of time, an oil-based make-up remover is required to get rid of the product, unlike regular make-up that gets removed just by using a water-based remover,” says Phinao Ningshen. Agarwal suggests using cleansing oils and balms with higher molecular weight as they are thicker and have a heavier base.

Also Read: Should you opt for cream- or powder-based make-up in the monsoon?

Also Read: 5 experts share eye make-up removal tips that actually work

Also Read: 8 cleansing balms to bank on to take off the most stubborn make-up