What happens to beauty products once they expire?

There is only so much that one can use, which is why beauty products end up rotting in a corner and eventually expire. We ask brands how they address this

With more access and accessibility, comes responsibility. Unfortunately, this theory hasn’t quite been put into practice when it comes to the consumption of fashion and beauty products. For instance, several reports claim that over 120 billion units of plastic packaging are introduced by the cosmetics industry every year. Unquestionably, the total number of beauty products—including skincare, hair care, make-up and fragrances—propelled into the market on a yearly basis will be marginally higher, given that a slew of brands have also resorted to sustainable, plastic-free packaging, the precise data of which hasn’t been taken into account in the aforementioned reports. Comprehending this colossal volume becomes easy when you learn that the global beauty market generated a revenue of approximately US$430 billion in 2022, and is poised to touch US$580 billion by 2027, at an annual growth rate of six per cent. 

There is evidently a demand for more, and a mountainous supply to live up to this demand. But, let’s get real—overconsumption has become the new normal, despite the virality of minimalism. Consumers are perpetually shopping for more products, and brands are subsequently churning out more. However, there is only so much that one can use, which is why beauty products end up rotting in a corner, and eventually expire, not just in your skincare cabinet but also in stores and inventory rooms of brands. We speak with four homegrown brands to find out what happens to beauty products once they expire.

How are expiry dates determined?

From grocery supplies to cosmetic products, running an expiry date check is key to making safe and enduring purchases. Sanya Dawar, marketing and communications lead, Forest Essentials, explains that the expiry dates of the brand’s products are determined through rigorous stability testing and quality assessments during the production process. “It’s based on the product’s composition, ingredients, and packaging to ensure safety, efficacy and freshness,” she states. In agreement with Dawar, Megha Asher, co-founder and COO, Juicy Chemistry, says that the shelf life of products varies, depending on the nature of the formulations and the preservatives used to make them stable. “For instance, our anhydrous (waterless) formulations on their own have a tested shelf life of 12-18 months. However, hydrous formulations such as our serums need preservatives to be shelf stable for 18 months from manufacturing and six months from opening. On the other hand, the natural make-up range offers a shelf life of 24-36 months since it contains broad-spectrum preservatives.”

Prachi Bhandari, founder and formulator at Aminu, furthers that deriving an expiry date for products is influenced by a number of factors—stability and microbial testing, ingredient chemistry and lifespan, and even the user’s habits. “We conduct long stability tests at different temperatures and time periods to determine how long a product retains its intended physical, chemical, and microbiological quality and performance under specific storage conditions. These tests help predict how long a product will last before it begins to degrade. We do preservative efficacy testing (PET) to determine the effectiveness of a preservative during its shelf life and evaluate how well a product withstands microbial contamination during use.”

Additionally, some ingredients have inherently shorter lifespans than others. “For example, certain natural oils and some active ingredients, like vitamin C, can degrade and lose efficacy over time,” says Bhandari. Along the same lines, Sukriti Khaitan, co-founder, asa Beauty, adds, “Since we predominantly employ whole, natural ingredients, our products have a shorter shelf life than those that use synthetic chemicals. At asa, expiry dates are very much focused around how long the product can remain effective, retain its texture and colour, and also withstand any type of microbial growth.”

How seriously should you take the expiry date?

Expiry dates are taken as an ultimatum for a reason. Despite that, whether a recently expired product can be used or not is a question that users often have. “Adhering to the expiry dates mentioned on the products is imperative for consumer safety and optimal product performance to derive the best results upon usage. After the expiry date, the product’s efficacy, quality, and safety may diminish,” says Dawar. “Expired products can become a breeding ground for harmful bacteria, increasing the risk of skin infections or irritations upon use. Additionally, the chemical breakdown of ingredients in expired products can result in the formation of potentially harmful substances and cause adverse effects and skin irritation,” says Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Niketa Sonavane. 

“An expiration date is an educated estimate; however, some products may actually last longer and will still be effective for longer than their expiry date,” says Bhandari, “but still beyond this date, active ingredients might lose their potency, rendering the product ineffective. Additionally, expired products might undergo chemical changes that could cause unexpected reactions or irritations. They may develop an off colour, may not smell as nice, and may not be as pleasant to use.” Using a product past its expiry date increases the risk of microbial contamination, which can introduce harmful bacteria and pathogens to the skin or body. In essence, relying on a product’s expiry date is not merely about maintaining its efficacy but, more importantly, ensuring safety, says Bhandari.

What’s the treatment given to beauty products that expire?

It’s not uncommon for products to perish on the shelves of beauty stores—physical and online—let alone your minuscule collection at home. While some brands attempt to get rid of the stock on bizarre discounts in the name of “clearance,” ethical brands retrieve any stocks that become obsolete. “When any of our items near their expiration while still on store shelves or in our online inventory, they are meticulously handled. Any product that has fully passed its expiration is disposed of responsibly, minimising any environmental impact. The product as well as the primary and secondary packaging are separately disposed and recycled wherever possible (paper, glass, plastic),” shares Bhandari. “One of our primary strategies to mitigate this issue is our small-batch production approach. We create our products in small quantities every month, tailored to meet forecasted demand. This significantly reduces the likelihood of overstocking and ensures that products are fresh when they reach customers,” shares Khaitan. “In the rare instance that some products are found to be close to their expiration date, they are promptly recalled from the store shelves or online inventory, and are sent back to our factory where they are discarded,” she adds.

The scope of recyclability and re-processability

While the packaging needs to go through a different process to be recycled and reused, the treatment given to expired products remains under wraps. “Since most of our products are over 85 per cent natural (whole ingredients natural), they are biodegradable and we aren’t too concerned about lasting or toxic waste production. Our recyclable aluminium cases, on the other hand, may be used again when the product inside is changed since they are refillable. Our goods naturally dissolve due to the natural components we use, which is consistent with our dedication to environmental responsibility,” says Khaitan. “At Juicy Chemistry, we manufacture our personal care range fresh in small batches. Usually, we hardly have any products that expire on the shelves. However, in case that happens, the products are discarded immediately. The packaging is sent for recycling and the formulations are completely biodegradable and do not pollute the soil or water bodies,” shares Asher. 

“When considering the repurposing or disposal of expired beauty products, being micro-plastic-free means that even when our products reach the end of their life cycle, they won’t contribute to the growing micro-plastic pollution crisis. It facilitates safer composting, recycling, or other repurposing avenues,” shares Bhandari, talking about how Aminu is tackling the plastic crisis that is mushrooming in the cosmetics industry by the day.

Upon asking Sonavane, if expired beauty products can be used in any alternative way, she says, “From an industrial perspective, some expired beauty products might be repurposed for alternative uses within the beauty or cosmetic industry. For instance, certain components or raw materials from expired products could be recycled or integrated into the production of other non-consumable items. Specific packaging materials—such as plastic containers or glass bottles—might be recycled and repurposed for manufacturing purposes unrelated to direct consumer use, thereby reducing overall waste and promoting sustainable production practices.”

Lastly, in an attempt to address the bigger problem, consumers must consciously step away from overconsumption, which is a crucial step towards curtailing overproduction.

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