What exactly makes a good anti-acne product?

We speak to experts about what goes into anti-acne products, how they react with the skin and how to go about picking the right one

Until I figured out a mindfully patient way to go about my skincare routine—which translates into refraining from trying too hard to mess with my skin’s natural processes—to tackle the resurgence of acne in adulthood, I absolutely hated its comeback. I had made my peace with the scars it left behind in my teenage years because I assumed it was a thing of the past. The return—like most ‘acne-prone’ skin types would agree—was least expected, yet felt like the worst kind of deja vu. Do I have to deal with the physical (and psychological) scarring all over again?

Acceptance occurred over time—it’s hormonal, it’s genetic, it can happen to anyone, anytime and it’s absolutely normal. In scientific terms, “it’s a disorder of the pilosebaceous unit of the skin,” explains medical and cosmetic consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto in her book The Skincare Bible, “This consists of a hair follicle and its associated sebaceous or oil gland. Blockage or inflammation of the pilosebaceous units will result in acne.” It just so happens that these oil glands are present in the highest density on our face (and back and chest). But the frequency of its occurrence doesn’t make it any less undesirable to the acne-afflicted individual.

Today, thanks to the breakthroughs in beauty and advanced lab research, over-the-counter (OTC) ‘targeted treatments’ help minimise the process and the pimple conveniently, if done right. No touching, no self-pitying and using the exact product to nip it in the bud without causing further damage to my already compromised skin. I now know never to rub a BHA toner onto my cleansed skin, but gently dab the solution instead to soothe and protect my pores. I will also fight the urge to reapply my spot treatment to target a zit more than once a day until it eventually disappears; my skin, hopefully unscathed. The epiphany also includes realising that a healthy lifestyle and diet contribute massively to my skin health. As an ode to these pimple-popping warriors that have come to many an acne-survivor’s rescue, we speak to the ones that created them, simply asking: What makes a really good anti-acne product?

The science behind it all

What makes acne-specific products different from their counterparts is the active ingredients present in the mix, or the ones that directly target the underlying cause of acne. Some work by killing the bacteria that led to the inflammation, like benzoyl peroxide, but one needs to be cognisant of their harsh repercussions if not used correctly. Others dig out the excess oil and dead skin cells that led to the inflammation, while also accelerating the process of cell regeneration—like BHAs, and the most common and coveted one being salicylic acid. The latter is what most non-prescription OTC products by skincare brands contain.

“Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate pores and dissolve the build-up of dead skin, sebum and other pore-clogging debris that acne-causing bacteria feast on, thereby reducing breakouts,” says Desiree Stordahl, Director of Applied Research & Education, Paula’s Choice. Since it’s anti-inflammatory, it helps minimise the redness and irritation associated with pimples. Founder Paula Begoun launched the cult-favourite 2 per cent BHA Liquid Exfoliant about 20 years ago as a formula to treat her own skin condition. Besides salicylic acid, the product includes methylpropanediol, a penetration-enhancing ingredient that boosts BHA’s pore-cleansing ability. French-origin brand Caudalie, that focuses on nature-driven actives, contains 100 per cent natural salicylic acid derived from wintergreen leaves in their acne-care range Vinopure, along with patented polyphenols that limit the oxidation of sebum, commonly referred to as blackheads. In Indian brand Lisen’s spot-corrector gel, Moving Forward, the salicylic acid is extracted from the bark of the willow tree at 0.5~2 per cent concentration.

The perfect balance

“A good anti-acne product is one that maintains the perfect balance between efficacy and a well-tolerated formula,” says Caudalie’s Head of Lab of Natural Formulation, Jean-Christophe Choulot. In order for actives to show off their potency, it is important to balance and tone them down with soothing ingredients that counteract the irritation they may cause. Paula’s BHA has calming green tea; Caudalie’s Vinopure has organic grape water and essential oils; Lisen’s Moving Forward has aloe and the brand’s patent phyto oligo, a blend of althaea rosea root extract and aloe barbadensis leaf extract for instant hydration.

“But it’s not just the percentage that matters, the formula’s pH level is equally important when it comes to BHA products,” says Stordahl. “BHA works best at a pH between three and four. Not adhering to this range can result in a product that’s either not as effective or is irritating to skin—this is where a lot of products get it wrong.” She suggests looking for products that don’t contain irritants like fragrance (synthetic or natural) or high amounts of drying alcohol. “When it comes to leave-on treatments, the product needs to be of a texture that won’t clog pores—think liquids, gels and lightweight lotions, as opposed to heavier creams.” Choulot warns about the effects of high dosage of hydroquinone, which can be very sensitising, assuring that none of Caudalie’s products contain it. Listen’s Head of Marketing Nikita Sharma also recommends checking if the product is registered with the authority of food and drug safety of the country of manufacture.

Getting the most out of anti-acne products

The key to maximising your anti-acne product? Being pragmatic. Realise that less is more, a little does a lot and that you need to give it time to work. Most OTC products show apparent results within seven days to a few weeks of consistent use. Consulting your skin doctor will also help determine the ingredients to avoid based on your skin type and concerns. With BHAs, start slow. Stordahl suggests applying it every other day and noting the skin’s response. “If it’s positive, then use up to twice daily, especially if you have moderate to severe acne,” she says.

Caudalie’s founder Mathilde points out the importance of using the anti-acne product on clean skin. “Always use a toner that also contains salicylic acid to minimise pores and cleanse the skin further, before applying serum or moisturiser.” Most importantly, never forget to top with sunscreen when using the product in the daytime. As for my biggest takeaway, the cure for acne will never be an overnight wonder. Sleep enough, let the actives do their job at their own pace and take the damn zit out to brunch while you sip on mimosas, unbothered.

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