The rise of editorial make-up

Editorial make-up isn’t just relegated to the pages of glossy magazines and runways anymore. It’s making its way into the mainstream with beauty enthusiasts devising their own versions

 TikTok and Instagram trends like glazed doughnut skin, soap brows and sun-kissed blush are by-products of the odyssey towards embracing voguish editorial make-up and making it one’s own. Editorial make-up, celebrity make-up artist Florian Hurel says, “can be simple, clean beauty looks or extravagant creations  that are not worn everyday.” For editorial make-up expert artist Mitesh Rajani, it [editorial make-up] is less technical and  more creative. 

A tool for self-expression

 Comparing it to conventional make-up, Kritika Gill, a Mumbai-based make-up artist,says editorial make-up is, “more about inhabiting a personality and making a statement, even if it’s not [necessarily] flattering or pretty in the conventional sense.” There’s no cookie-cutter mould make-up fits into today. From a ‘no-make-up make-up’ look to neon pink and electric blue eyes, there’s a safe space for everyone.

Content creator Aashna Shroff agrees, “Make-up is very therapeutic for me. If I feel down, or find myself in a rut creatively,, I  play with  make-up and feel better instantly. I usually go with the flow, whether I feel like embracing colours or neutrals on a particular day. This is how I express myself through make-up.” One can perceive editorial make-up as an apparatus of story-telling and mood-setting or, perhaps, a way to emotionally express oneself—after all, haven’t we all put on a red lip for an instant pick-me-up?

Today,  run-of-the-mill make-up is slowly being replaced in vanity kits; it is not just a medium to correct and beautify. “Previously, there were a lot of stigmas attached to make-up; today, that’s not the case. You can, in fact, express who you are through make-up. People are having fun with make-up, and it’s reflective of their mood,” says Savleen Manchanda, a celebrity make-up artist.

Talking about the evolution of make-up, Shroff believes there is a new trend every few months. “I am enjoying how make-up is being used as a form of self-expression, and not just by women. It’s an art form; whether it’s a bold, fun editorial look or something natural. Whether it’s bringing back trends from the 1990s or creating new ones, the amount of creativity one sees online is proof that there’s no limit when it comes to creativity in make-up.”

What led to its omnipresence 

In the age of social media and influence, celebrity make-up looks, pop culture and television dictate what make-up trend we agree to try out next. Whether it’s Hailey Bieber’s dessert-like skin or Zendaya and Sydney Sweeney’s spooky lashes and embellished eyes as seen in Euphoria, netizens want to replicate every look  that’s topping the trend charts. The 3.7 million posts under #euphoria and 5,93,000 posts under #euphoriamakeup on Instagram are testament to the television show’s influence on Gen-Z.

Exposure to pop culture isn’t the only significant thing that social media facilitates. It also serves as a platform for content creators and beauty enthusiasts globally to showcase their individuality and passion for make-up. “Through influencers, people see non-celebrities wearing editorial make-up, which leaves them majorly influenced,” believes Manchanda.

On whether she contributed towards editorial make-up mainstream, Shroff says, “In a way, maybe. While I love experimenting with make-up, my style is a mash-up of editorial and everyday make-up. I love playing with colour and trying new trends, but I always try to make the looks more wearable in case anyone wants to recreate a look.” 

Then there are creators like Shantanu Dhope, Deep Pathare and Jason Arland who don’t just demonstrate art but also empower men to free themselves from the clutches of societal norms. Gill says, “With the new-age influencers, no look is out of bounds. It’ll only get bigger and better. Anyone can be who they want with make-up.” Social media has also opened doors to tips and tutorials from the experts—you can access it all, whether it’s global make-up artists like Vincent Ford, UAE-based Hindash or celebrity make-up artist Arti Nayar’s educative page.

Clean v/s OTT glam

With the success of  Bieber’s Rhode Skin and Euphoria’s make-up artist Doniella Davy’s Half Magic Beauty, one thing is for sure:there’s room for everyone and every aesthetic. Gill believes that both clean make-up and over-the-top make-up have an equal potential for growth. "We have several emotions or personalities that we might want to convey. The same person could be happy with clean skin and a balmy pink lip in the day but may want to be more edgy and fierce for a night out," she says. "There's a place for both," reinstates Nayar. "When you talk about editorial make-up, it could be anything; there's a wide range to choose from." On shoots, she attributes a lot of importance to the vibe, the clothes and, most importantly, the narrative.

Shroff loves a good hybrid of the two. "I go for something bold on the eyes and keep the rest clean," she says. For Gill, too, "clean beauty with hints of drama" wins. "So many people want to experiment with make-up using looks inspired by editorial make-up, and it's only going to become more widespread."

Make it your own

While the talent to create avant-garde, out-of-the-box editorial make-up takes artistry, the shift towards editorial make-up from aspirational to achievable is cause for celebration—it unlocks endless opportunities for individuals and beauty brands. Purple blush, siren eyes, bleached eyebrows, embellished eyes, faux freckles, a bold statement lip and spiked eyelashes are some editorial trends that have become mainstream today. 

Draping blush is our favourite for winter. “It involves dragging your blush towards the temples and attempting a contour with it,” states Rajani. “Choose the right colour (when it’s going all the way to your hairline) to avoid it looking excessive. Ditch deeper tones and pick neutral roses, salmon pinks and softer browns.” According to Rajani, trust your eyes to let you unleash your most creative side because they have a lot more room for play. Start with the Euphoria-inspired embellished eyes. “You don’t need mad make-up skills to create an embellished look,” says Hurel. 

There are no rules—whether a pop on the corners of the eyes or an all-embellished liner, whether all-white or multi-coloured—the choice is yours. Give siren eyes a shot, the trend that took over TikTok with over 365 million views. “Apply a matte brown shadow in the crease and on the upper lash line towards the temples in a winged shape. Next, apply some under the lower lash line and connect it to the top wing. Finish with dramatic lashes that are longer at the outer ends for a feline look. Use eyeliner to take it up by a few notches,” Gill advises.

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