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Shabana Patker-Vahi profile imageShabana Patker-Vahi
Should you be getting onto the slugging bandwagon?

Slugging may be the hottest beauty trend to come out of Korea. But will it give you a morning glow or lead to a breakout?

I have a confession to make–I gave into the hugely popular Tik-Tok beauty trend and slugged my face, for real. Was it slimy? Yes. Did I enjoy it? Not particularly. Did I see the expected result? Surprisingly, I did. Would I do it every night? Absolutely not.

If you have no clue of what I’m going on about, it’s time to tweak your K-beauty antennae just a little. Slugging is the latest home-hack beauty trend to emerge from the beauty bastion that is Korea. It involves slathering a thick layer of petroleum jelly (like Vaseline) all over your face before bedtime. This forms a moisture lock and seals in hydration, leaving you with a glowing complexion the morning after. That’s the theory, anyway. But should you do it? Will it work for you or can it trigger skin issues? We get influencers and professionals to weigh in.

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"I can see a visible difference in the dryness and dullness of my skin," says Nidhi Kavle

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"After I started slugging, I noticed a significant transformation. I would wake up with super-smooth, glowing skin," says Ria Biyani

The routine

It is essential to stick to your regular nighttime skincare routine. Slugging is not an alternative to your moisturising regimen; it’s the last-minute addition when you want a bit more protection. Speaking of protection—a soft, fluffy hand towel tucked over your pillow goes a long way in saving your linens. DO NOT try this with a silk pillow—slugged skin and ion-enriched hair are certainly not a good mix.

The science

Petrolatum, which is what all petroleum jelly comprises of, is an occlusive, which means it not only locks in the moisture and hydration components of your products but also seals in their active ingredient, thereby allowing them to work their way on your skin without having to deal with trans-epidermal moisture loss, commonly known as evaporation. Apparently, occlusives can prevent this loss of moisture up to 99 per cent. That’s as water-tight as it gets.

The hype girls

Beauty influencer Ria Biyani (@rithink_skin) champions slugging after noticing a visible and continued difference in her skin. “My skin was going through a change, from being oilier and even-toned to developing dry patches. After I started slugging, I noticed a significant transformation. I would wake up with super-smooth, glowing skin.” She doesn’t slug her skin every night; twice a week at most, and keeps her moisture routine light on those nights, minus actives. Her go-to slugging products are CeraVe Healing Ointment or Aquaphor Healing Ointment.

Digital creator Nidhi Kavle (@nidhikavle) took to slugging after a prolonged bout of acne medication left her skin excessively dry and bereft of moisture. She adds her own twist to slugging, swapping out a heavy occlusive like Vaseline with layers of snail mucin. “In the summer when it’s really hot and I don’t want to feel a greasy layer on my face, I use six to seven layers of Cosrx Snail Mucin Essence and follow it up with three to four layers of Cosrx Snail Mucin Moisturiser. I can see a visible difference in the dryness and dullness of my skin. Honestly, you can slug with any product like a facial oil or even an excessively creamy moisturiser.” Kavle saw results in about a week, but it was well worth the wait.

Occlusives can prevent loss of moisture up to 99 per cent. That’s as water-tight as it gets. Image: Getty

Occlusives can prevent loss of moisture up to 99 per cent. That’s as water-tight as it gets. Image: Getty

The nay-sayers

New Delhi-based dermatologist duo Dr Garekar(s) took to their hugely popular Instagram handle (@garekarsmddermatologyclinic), advising against slugging for Indian skin. The basic biology is that Indian skin has a much higher sebum content, providing a natural layer to the skin preventing trans-epidermal moisture loss. Overloading these glands with an occlusive could make skin more prone to congestion, leading to, or aggravating, acne-prone skin is their medical opinion.

Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta of Isaac Luxe Clinic concurs that slugging is not for those with acne- or blemish-prone skin, as the high grease levels could lead to breakouts. She does, however, recommend slugging for dry spots on the face, particularly lips and eyelids, for all types of skin.

The alternative

For my part, I’m happy to slug my face occasionally–preferably more regularly in the winter, as the scorching Indian summer and mega-humid Mumbai monsoon don’t really send out a siren call to slather on an occlusive every day. My usual nighttime skincare routine ends with a final layer of an overnight gel mask anyway (Innisfree Green Tea Sleeping Mask is my go-to). Having said that, I’m quite keen to put slugging to the acid test and make it a regular part of my body hydration routine–think lips, elbows, ankles and my Sahara-esque soles.

The verdict

Well, the jury’s still out on this one–it really is up to you. You know your skin best. If you’ve got a yearning to try this trend, go right ahead. But making it a regular guilty pleasure is something you should probably discuss with your dermatologist, especially if you have highly reactive or sensitive skin.

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