Meet Dinyar Workingboxwalla—Mumbai's OG aesthetician

Age is just a number for the specialist who’s created a skincare line in his seventies

Today’s dermatologists and aestheticians may be partial to all the latest technologies that are cropping up, but Dinyar Workingboxwalla is still a fan of the classics. When Workingboxwalla started his aesthetician practice, bell bottoms were in. The shag haircut was trendy, everyone was experimenting with bright eyeshadows, and Sholay hadn’t even come out yet. Fifty years later, he’s still working his magic on clients that range from those he saw way back then, as well as Gen Z-ers that are obsessed with cropped tops, Harry Styles and K-beauty. Now, he’s formulated a skincare line too—BiE—with jewellery designer Queenie Singh. What has he learnt over the years and what is he still figuring out? Edited excerpts from an interview:

What were your clients looking for when you were starting out almost 50+ years ago? Do you think the standards of beauty have changed then vs now?

Skin concerns were the same in those days as they are today. What differed was the kind of treatment that worked. Women were told that the right age to get a facial was only after 30, which was sound advice for that time. There was barely any competition in the market and women were happy using Charmis All-Purpose Cream or the Pond’s Cold Cream. Women relied heavily on nourishing food and a slower pace of life, tending to their skin holistically. Since the beauty industry was not inundated with competition, the products women wanted were very basic and generic, a need that was easily caterable to. A lot has changed since.

We don’t even need to go back 50 years to see the change in the standards of beauty. What worked 10 years ago—overlined lips, heavier eye makeup etc is not at all popular, anymore. There is a lot more competition and mainstream media by way of commercials and magazines in the beauty space. Everyone wants to look good and overcome the insecurity of being left behind.

Take the example of lowlights. What I have known through my work is that lowlights look the best on Indian complexions. However, I get a lot of questions about highlights instead, since that is what everyone in the industry is getting done. It is the same for hair straightening without the consideration of the damage it does to your hair. Hair botox is another one of these newer industry demands that I just cannot reconcile with. What may look nice on the ramp may not look nice in personal life, but unfortunately, society is hell bent on telling us it does.

Tell us about starting a skincare brand now. Why did you want to create BiE in an already super saturated space?

Throughout my entire practice, I have relied on products that are result-oriented and helped my clients understand the importance of consistency. Nowadays, the average skincare consumer is overwhelmed with the options available to them. Sadly, that leads to the market being overrun with products that are formulated with nasty ingredients and a lack of transparency on their labels. The availability of multiple choices in every category means buying the trendiest product to achieve instant gratification. The truth, however, is that there is no such thing as an anti-ageing product in the world. A line is a line is a line. A pore is a pore is a pore. Nothing that can reverse time and stop the ticking of the clock. You can only decrease the speed.

The same applies to my idea of launching a skincare brand now. What this industry needs is a line of products that are formulated in a safe and clean manner, with only the most result-oriented ingredients. However, the ability to stand out of the crowd is not lost on me. So the ingredients are very unique to reflect that need. Across our products, you will find ingredients like resveratrol, diamond dust, stem cells and vital oxygen. Based on the skin types I have treated over the years, I have also taken immense care in deciding what percentages of each will go into our products. My experience and know-how of the skincare space is what I have modernised and brought into existence with BiE. There are no gimmicks and misleading labels. The main USP is to religiously use these products and build consistent routines that are beneficial at 16 as well as 60.

What is your take on today’s skincare trends like LED devices and microneedling and interventions like botox and fillers?

I, personally, am absolutely against electronic devices of any kind. I believe in the holistic skincare approach. Your head, hands, and heart have to be in total coordination, because they are your best machines. LED devices and microneedling might work for Caucasian skin types, but we in India cannot possibly adopt the same techniques. Skin of colour, especially Indian skin, is very unique. I always say, the gentler your approach the better. When it comes to botox and fillers, I think it is an absolutely personal choice. I have never had any work done on my face, but now looking at the mirror at age 70, I think I might need some intervention.

Do you feel like social media has changed the direction people are taking with their routines and their approach to skincare?

The rise of Instagram influencers and YouTube vloggers has redefined what it means to share skincare secrets. The dissemination of skincare-related information is widespread and the consumer is infinitely more informed. That also means, as a formulator of products, I have to sit back and pay attention to the common pain points consumers are sharing. Celebrities and micro influencers alike are discussing the timely need for clean and safe beauty products. They do not want to break the bank testing hundreds of products to find the single one that doesn’t cause breakouts or redness. They are looking for steady transformations over a period of time using products that they can trust and invest in. They are looking for products formulated with their specific skin concerns in mind. People are warming up to more advanced technologies and products with unique ingredient combinations and it is finally time that the industry listened.

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