How do you choose between night creams and overnight masks?

We attempt to understand what you really need to use in your skincare routine, one night product at a time

While the 10-step skincare routine may have been all the rage at one point, people the world over are moving towards creating regimens where less is more. Hardworking, multitasking products with efficacious ingredients are on top shelves for the foreseeable future, raising questions on the relevancy of every category. So what’s the consensus on the night-cream-versus-overnight-mask debate? While both products promise to be ultra-nourishing, how often should you use each of them, if at all? Two dermatologists help us understand. 

Overnight masks v/s night creams: What’s the difference?

Both product types have a similar purpose but there are key differences worth noting. Dr Kiran Sethi, Delhi-based integrative aesthetic specialist, dermatologist and founder, Isyaderm, explains: “Night creams are moisturisers designed to nourish and hydrate the skin while you sleep. They typically have a thicker consistency and are formulated with ingredients that help replenish moisture and repair your skin barrier. On the other hand, overnight masks are often more concentrated and have a gel or cream-gel texture. They are formulated to provide intensive hydration, repair, and other specific benefits, such as brightening, anti-aging, or soothing the skin.” The key differentiator between the two comes down to the potency of the formula. “Overnight masks are highly potent and contain active ingredients,” says Dr Batul Patel, Mumbai-based dermatologist and founder, The Bombay Skin Clinic.

“They also work as both, a barrier and a sealant, preventing  dirt and dust from entering your pores and locking in other active products that are part of your nighttime routine.”

Frequency of use?

If you have a well-established skincare routine that you follow diligently (which includes a nourishing night cream), an overnight mask isn’t an essential product to own. However, if you have pressing skin concerns, it can help address them. “For example, if you have dry or dehydrated skin, an overnight mask can provide an extra boost of hydration. If you have concerns like dullness, uneven skin tone, or fine lines, an overnight mask formulated with brightening or anti-aging ingredients can complement your existing routine and provide targeted benefits,” says Sethi. As for frequency, it’s best to stick to using an overnight mask a couple of times a week, and ensuring that you read the product label so you don’t overdo it.

“Depending on which active ingredients are present in the overnight mask, exposure to a chemical exfoliant regularly can make your skin irritated and more sensitive to UV rays,” warns Patel. “You can use overnight masks once or twice a week. After washing your face, apply your eye cream and serum followed by the mask.”

How to pick the perfect overnight mask

Now that we’ve established that overnight masks work as an added layer to treat primary skin concerns, here’s how you should pick one based on the concern cards you’ve been dealt with.

• If you have dry or dehydrated skin, Sethi recommends choosing a mask with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or ceramides.

• If excess oiliness or acne is your concern, “opt for lightweight gel-based masks that won't clog pores. Look for ingredients like salicylic acid or tea tree oil for acne-fighting properties,” she suggests.

• Overnight masks can help soothe sensitive skin as well. “Choose masks with soothing ingredients like aloe vera, chamomile, or oat extract to calm and reduce redness.”

• Treat fine lines and wrinkles with a bedtime mask containing “retinol, peptides, or antioxidants to help firm the skin and reduce the appearance of signs of ageing.”

• To brighten your skin and improve a patchy skin tone, “look for masks with ingredients like Vitamin C, niacinamide, or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) that help promote a more radiant complexion and even out your skin tone.”

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