How beneficial are coffee-infused products for your skin?

Coffee-based beauty products sell like hot cakes today but we are ambivalent about the kitchen staple’s extensive utility, especially in its raw and gritty form

Not so long ago, jars of pulverised coffee were confined solely to our kitchen shelves. Providing that much-needed kickstart every morning, the caffeine-loaded beverage continues to be a staple alongside breakfast for many. However, today, coffee is not just a beverage; its usage is largely ubiquitous—from body scrubs and shower gels to candles and perfumes, the ingredient is everywhere. Beauty brands and enthusiasts alike widely approve of the introduction of caffeine in beauty products, which have garnered substantial interest from consumers. But should you even be exfoliating your skin with such an abrasive ingredient? 

How good is coffee for your skin?

Look up any advertisement for coffee-infused beauty products and you’ll discern that most—if not all—of the communication revolves around caffeine. With typically 40 milligrams of caffeine in 200 grams of coffee, it does surface as one of the most caffeine-packed ingredients to play with.  Coffee has a handful of benefits.  Saturated with caffeine and antioxidants, it helps with acquiring an even skin tone, reduces puffiness and protects the skin against damage from free radicals, thereby delaying signs of ageing. Moreover, it contains serine, an amino acid, that provides moisture to the skin.

Dr Kiran Sethi, founder, Isya Aesthetics and author of Skin Sense agrees, “Caffeine and antioxidants can help brighten the skin and also offer temporary skin tightening.” But the gravel-like texture of coffee still prevails as a matter of concern, primarily in face, body and scalp scrubs.

As a product, coffee scrub often finds itself in a rut of controversies; evolved skincare enthusiasts perpetually question the distinction between a DIY coffee scrub and branded ones available online or off the shelves. Citing the fundamental differentiating factor, Prachi Bhandari, co-founder of skincare label Aminu says, “Coffee is grounded with the intention of making and drinking it. The coffee grounds aren’t cosmetically smooth, and can hence cause micro-tears across your skin as you rub them.” She exemplifies her point through her brand’s offering, the Antioxidant Coffee Body Scrub, which contains quality virgin coffee with high polyphenol and is evenly and finely grounded, ensuring it is gentle enough yet effective for your skin.

In concurrence, Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder, Yavana Aesthetics states, “Coffee granules, when used as scrubs, can cause micro-tears on the skin leading to skin damage, irritation, allergic rashes and even pigmentation in the long run. However, personal care brands process and formulate their scrubs in a way that reduces the chances of damage that would otherwise occur with raw coffee from the kitchen. Such brands also often add other ingredients to enhance the effects of the product.”

Agarwal also highlights the quality check quotient of products offered by brands. “OTC (over-the-counter) products are preferred as opposed to DIY remedies since they have FDA (Food & Drug Association) approvals for safety with standardised coffee extracts that, at times, are combined with other synergistic ingredients to give better results, unlike DIY home remedies.” Upon being asked if one can make from scratch the kind of coffee body scrub Juicy Chemistry offers (Hazelnut, Coffee and Chocolate Scrub/Mask), Meghna Asher, co-founder of the homegrown beauty brand admits, “It’s possible; our scrub is handmade as well.”

Asher also states that quality control for handmade coffee scrubs is critical. “Getting the consistency right is very important; is the scrub too runny? Too abrasive? What’s the proportion of the ingredients used? What happens when you don’t add a certain ingredient? We’ve researched long and hard to come up with a formulation that works. DIY is possible but should be done with care,” she concludes. On similar lines, Bhandari expresses her concerns about preserving DIY recipes. “You cannot conserve a natural DIY beauty product longer than a day; without the right preservatives, it’s likely to develop bacteria and mould quickly.”

The best way forward

While coffee is skin-enriching, one ought to be mindful of the texture and form of coffee the skin is exposed to. For instance, a coffee-infused eye cream could be much more enduring and beneficial than a harsh coffee scrub that offers temporary benefits. “The best way to incorporate coffee in your beauty regime would be as a leave-on in the form of serums, creams or lotions, with 1-5 per cent of the ingredient,” says Sethi. There are, however, no studies to document whether a particular quantity of coffee is permitted for topical use on the skin, confirms Agarwal. If you’re still a fan of physical exfoliation, dermatologists are of the opinion that investing in a commercial one is a wiser choice. Additionally, as a rule of thumb, restrict a coffee scrub to your body alone; your facial skin and scalp are too delicate and don’t require abrasives like coffee to get rid of dead skin. “Scrubs should be gently applied to the skin, and excessive scrubbing and rubbing should be avoided. It should be used once a week or twice a month, depending on the skin type. Don’t forget to layer the skin with moisturiser afterwards,” advises Agarwal.

Also Read: 6 French pharmacy brands nudging K-Beauty off the shelf

Also Read: 5 dermatologists on the worst beauty mishaps they’ve ever had to treat

Also Read: Why are mushrooms finding their way into beauty and wellness products?