Prachi Bhandari, co-founder of Aminu, tells The Established what sets the brand apart, from going great lengths to sourcing the right ingredients to handholding consumers completely new to a skincare routine
The skincare industry is nothing like it used to be a decade or two ago. From the ingress of a plethora of international beauty brands in India to the proliferation of homegrown skincare brands, the beauty industry is thriving. While this spells good news, it also means a sense of overwhelm and confusion at the user’s end and competition at the brand’s end. Subsequently, different brands do different things to leave a mark on the consumer and stay relevant. For homegrown skincare brand Aminu, the integration of potency with simplicity is not just its USP but a significant part of its ethos.
Established in 2019, Aminu’s first set of products saw the light of the day in 2021. Husband-wife duo Prachi Bhandari and Aman Mohunta co-founded this brand with a view to making skincare everything that it should be, but wasn’t—decipherable, adaptable, accessible, and most importantly, functional. Every product from the brand brings together lucidity (on the outside) and complexity (on the inside). Potent multi-active formulations are packaged in containers with labels that communicate almost everything—from the products’ ingredients and the concerns it addresses to which step of your skincare routine the product should be incorporated at.
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Husband-wife duo Prachi Bhandari and Aman Mohunta co-founded Aminu with a view to making skincare everything that it should be, but wasn’t—decipherable, adaptable, accessible, and most importantly, functional
When Bhandari, a licensed cosmetologist, trained at the highest level CIDESCO, CIBTAC and MASA, London, was joined by Mohunta, an economist from the Indian Institute of Technology in Kanpur, they had a crystal-clear vision of uncomplicating skincare through solid offerings. Today, within two years of being in the business, Aminu has successfully managed to put out a line of products with something for every skin type, skin concern, and skin need. Besides a diverse set of serums, moisturisers, cleansers, and face masks, Aminu also offers a couple of aromatherapeutic bodycare products that intend to provide a spa-like experience at home.
“We envision a world where skincare is not just about surface-level enhancements but a holistic journey towards self-discovery, self-care, and self-love,” says Bhandari. We speak to her, who is also the head of research, development and training at Aminu, to give us an insight into the brand, from inception to implementation.
What motivated you to start a skincare brand during a time when the world wasn't just facing a pandemic but also witnessed an over- crowded beauty industry?
Skin, as an organ, has always amazed me. After all, our skin grows and ages with us; the tone, texture and lines tell the story of our lives. The seed of inspiration came from a series of experiences, and a deeper curiosity was ignited during my father’s critical health journey. Doctors had given up hope when he slipped into a coma after a brain infection. It was then that my inclination towards holistic health and wellness strengthened. Witnessing the marvels of the human body, medical science, and holistic health practices to combat cancer and its effects moved me.
I became increasingly passionate about creating a healing sanctuary that would embrace the science of nature, advanced technology and techniques. This led me to establish a holistic clinical spa called Kallidora in Mumbai, that offered therapeutic skincare services. Here, I introduced facial massages that work on the muscles in the face for a non-invasive yet effective option for glowing, toned, and lifted skin. While working in the spa for years and coming across many skin concerns, it was hard to find a homegrown brand or any solutions that resonated with the intricacies of the physiology of skin and the phytochemistry of natural ingredients. This led to the foundation of Aminu.
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Aminu is a curated collection of clean, high-grade formulations designed for all skin moods, concerns, and genders, says Prachi Bhandari
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Co-founders Aman Mohunta and Prachi Bhandari started working on the brand in the year 2019 and the products finally launched in March 2021
What were the challenges of launching the brand during a pandemic?
At Aminu, we do research and development, sourcing, and distribution in-house; these require the physical movement of people and materials. Restrictions on movement during the pandemic and limited supply chains made all these tasks Herculean during 2020 and until the last quarter of 2021. Once the formulas were locked in, sourcing the packaging material and ingredients (181 at the time and more than 90 per cent imported) was another challenge. Even if one ingredient didn’t reach us on time, one or more products could not have been launched. And since we also planned to approach salons from day one, we needed to have all the products ready before we could go out in the market. It was tough to streamline this at a time when the global supply chains were broken.
We finally launched our website and were to ready sell in March 2021 and the second wave hit. We had to push out all our plans until things settled to August 2021 and make up for the five months lost (remember, all the products have a shelf-life clock that was ticking). All said and done, these experiences have mentally and physically trained us to survive and deliver the best for our customers in the worst of times.
What did you hope to achieve through Aminu from a skincare solution point of view?
Healthy skin. I wanted to create a collection of products that I wanted for myself and every skin type, and I couldn’t find anywhere else. Aminu is a curated collection of clean, high-grade formulations designed for all skin moods, concerns, and genders. Our meticulously crafted formulations are the culmination of my experience of over 10 years as a cosmetologist, my research as a product developer, and rigorous testing as a consumer. Everything happens at a cellular level, from ageing, hyper-pigmentation, dryness and even acne, so our products are crafted to work at a cellular level. They help skin restore, rebalance, and better its overall health by boosting its inherent abilities to repair itself, grow healthy cells, and combat both environmental and internal stressors. We also strive to educate and empower individuals about their skin and skincare rituals.
According to you, who is the Aminu consumer?
We don’t have a specific target demographic or customer. We believe that (any and every) skin is skin and everyone can benefit from Aminu’s result-driven skincare products. All our products are gender-neutral, with a solution for every skin mood and concern. Aman puts it perfectly: “Everyone is an Aminu consumer.”
“MANY SKINCARE PRODUCTS IN THE MARKET TEND TO FOCUS ON A SINGLE CONCERN OR OFFER GENERIC SOLUTIONS, OVERLOOKING THE DIVERSE NEEDS AND NUANCES OF DIFFERENT SKIN TYPES OR MOODS. TO FILL THIS GAP, WE TAKE A COMPREHENSIVE APPROACH TO PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT”
Prachi Bhandari
Why did you bet on multi-ingredient formulations?
Multi-functional is a logical need and not a trend; it acknowledges the multifaceted nature of skin concerns and aims to target multiple factors simultaneously. By combining compatible ingredients in our formulations, we create a holistic solution for overall skin improvement. Each ingredient is chosen for its specific ability to work synergistically with others, amplifying their efficacy. This results in more noticeable and faster results compared to using a single-ingredient product, which is used at much higher concentrations, hence making it more potent.
While single-ingredient formulations may benefit manufacturers (it’s easier to formulate and move to market) and marketers (using terms like ‘customisable’ are very appealing to buyers), we prioritise our consumers’ needs and convenience. For the person actually using the product, however, the deep knowledge of cosmetic chemistry needed to mix and layer these products in a way that achieves results becomes very burdensome and nearly impossible. Single-ingredient actives such as niacinamide, vitamin C, or acids can cause irritation, especially for those consumers who are not savvy on how to layer or create their own regimen. Combining powerful actives incorrectly can also increase the chances of a negative reaction, rendering ingredients ineffective.
Every product is multi-ingredient and potent, and yet you position them as beginner-friendly solutions. How does that work?
Right penetration of active ingredients into deeper layers of the skin and modifying the rate at which actives are released and delivered make the formula biocompatible and beginner-friendly. We recognise the potential risks and irritations that can arise from using potent single-ingredient actives without proper knowledge or guidance. Our formulations mitigate these risks by combining ingredients in precise ratios, ensuring effective yet gentle results.
Additionally, we provide clear usage instructions for each product, making it easy for beginners to incorporate them into their skincare routine. Our instructions outline the recommended frequency of use, application techniques, and any additional steps or precautions to follow. It helps beginners feel confident in using our products correctly and obtaining optimal results. Instead of overwhelming beginners with a multitude of products, we offer targeted multi-ingredient solutions that address specific concerns. This approach eliminates the need for extensive trial and error or guesswork. Lastly, our website, blog, and customer service channels offer valuable information on skincare basics, ingredient benefits, and tips for building an effective routine.
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“Everyone is an Aminu consumer,” believes Aman Mohunta
The products feature a target-based approach—was that a conscious decision to make things simpler for a beginner?
Yes. We made a conscious decision to adopt a target-based approach in our product line-up to make things simpler for beginners (and everyone else). We understand that the world of skincare can be overwhelming, especially if you're just starting out. So, we wanted to create a skincare experience that is clear, straightforward, and delivers results. We’ve done the hard work for you by narrowing down the choices to products that directly address your concerns, so you don’t have to sift through endless options. If that is not enough, you can always call up our expert team for a one-on-one consultation. The label (and website descriptions) of products also carry the step number, purpose, key ingredients, and directions of use to simplify things further.
What’s the process of developing your products?
Launching a new product is something we take very seriously. Sometimes there is a method to our madness. Sometimes it’s just madness. It all starts with understanding a skin concern at the fundamental level and designing a holistic solution to prevent, cure, and make the skin healthy again. Say if we want to make a hydrating cream, we first start with what we—you and your skin—want, in this case, a formulation that tackles the concerns with replenishing ingredients and a soft and creamy texture to heal dry and irritated skin.
We also focus a lot on the delivery systems. We have a clear understanding of what we don’t want—a weird, heavy texture, or dry finish, having harsh ingredients, and then being too lightweight. We definitely don’t want silicones, microplastics, drying alcohols or artificial fragrances. In short, our development process involves an approach that combines scientific research, ingredient selection, formulation expertise, and rigorous testing (So far, we have evaluated more than 4000 ingredients, rejected 3700 and used 200).
Our products are produced in certified facilities using state-of-the-art equipment and adhering to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP). We also pay careful attention to sustainable and eco-friendly packaging materials.
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Aminu's products are produced in certified facilities using state-of-the-art equipment and adhering to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP)
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Aminu's products contain ingredients extracted from resins, barks, roots, seeds, leaves, flowers, and fruits of different plants from around the world
What is the role of neuroscience/neurochemistry here?
I realised that there is a profound connection between the mind and the skin while working on different skin types at the spa, and that our thoughts, emotions, and stress levels influence the health and appearance of our skin. This made me explore the neuroscience behind this mind-skin connection.
Armed with this knowledge, I created our stress-relieving Nourishing Sleep Oil that could soothe the skin and promote a sense of calm and balance with ingredients like copaiba oleoresin and Myrrha extract.
I have thoughtfully composed an ingredient deck, including aromatherapeutic components to play a role in mood enhancement and elevate the skincare experience. Our products contain ingredients extracted from resins, barks, roots, seeds, leaves, flowers, and fruits of different plants from around the world. These components complement the peptides, ceramides, antioxidants, vitamins, and bio-ferments combined in our lab.
All in-salon Aminu treatments have a signature step zero called “awaken your skin” before starting any treatment. This integration of neuroscience and neurochemistry allows us to craft products that go beyond traditional skincare. In the end, it is self-care alone that improves your emotional health.
What place does sensorial experience hold for you as brand formulators?
The sensorial experience is paramount to our approach towards formulating skincare products. At the same time, it is very hard for us to work without silicones, microplastics, and polymers—they are a great shortcut to stabilising ingredients and controlling texture. Unfortunately, they also make everything feel the same, many aren’t water-soluble, and they can reduce the bioavailability of actives for the skin. Though we’re accustomed to expecting silicone-like results and polymer-like gels from all formulations as customers, the problem is that when you formulate without silicones, you show people the real condition of their skin with visible pores. When you formulate without polymers or microplastics and use plant gums instead, the gel is not as clear and appealing to the eyes. Such synthetic alternatives can build up on your skin and are weighing down the planet. But, we’re proud to crack the code.
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Every product from the brand brings together lucidity (on the outside) and complexity (on the inside).
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When you formulate without polymers or microplastics and use plant gums instead, the gel is not as clear and appealing to the eyes, informs Prachi Bhandari
Aminu also uses a lot of exotic or rare marine and botanical ingredients. What’s the sourcing process like? And how did you manage that during a state of lockdown?
When you are using so many ingredients from across the world with the promise of high efficacy and sustainability, it becomes very important that you ensure that these ingredients are of the highest quality in terms of nutrient value and safety and are sourced sustainably. We are very particular about certification and safety test reports. From an operations point of view, Aman does feel that managing the inventory is definitely a challenge; we have to ensure the availability of all the ingredients (over 210 currently) at all times, by balancing very long lead times in a lot of cases, maintaining enough shelf-life and minimising working capital requirement. Over time, we have built in-house inventory management systems that help us achieve all of the above. During the lockdown, thoughtful planning, building strong relationships with our suppliers, and constant follow-ups with all the stakeholders involved helped us manage and keep the operations running.
As a formulator, what gap do you notice in the products in the current market? How do you fill it?
Many skincare products in the market tend to focus on a single concern or offer generic solutions, overlooking the diverse needs and nuances of different skin types or moods. To fill this gap, we take a comprehensive approach to product development. We prioritise understanding the intricacies of various skin concerns and tailor our formulations accordingly. In an environment saturated with skincare options, I wanted to bring quality over quantity—our holistic line aims to deliver the results of five products in every single bottle. We want to help you do more with less.
What place does community-building hold at Aminu?
A very important place. We want you to feel comfortable and confident in your skincare choices. In terms of giving back to society, we have started working on a couple of initiatives focused on sustainability and girl-child welfare. Having said that, community-building for me starts at our workplace. We are building a work culture that is inclusive, encouraging, productive, and open to mothers looking to make a professional comeback. On the consumer side, we are trying to make ourselves as accessible as possible to even an individual customer and give them the space and expert guidance to understand their skin better. The idea is that these interactions are, and will, over time, crystallise into stronger bonds with our customers and build a wider community that is focused more on skin health than vanity.
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