For Purearth’s founder Kavita Khosa, ‘clean beauty’ isn’t a mere buzzword

Ayurvedic practitioner and author Kavita Khosa brought together her ardour for nature and her motherland with her sagacity of Ayurveda to conceptualise Purearth in 2012

A little over a decade ago, the beauty industry in India was still trying to find a footing. Back then, only a handful of luxury Ayurvedic brands existed and renowned international beauty houses had just about forayed into the Indian market, co-existing with several drugstore brands. However, if seen through a macroscopic lens, the Indian beauty industry was thriving and surviving through the agency of misinformation. There was a lack of authenticity and transparency, and formulations were crafted without analysing their impact on the various aspects of the planet as well as the consumers. Amidst this milieu, Purearth was born. 

An Ayurvedic practitioner for over 20 years and author of Beauty Unbottled: Timeless Ayurvedic Rituals & Recipes Kavita Khosa brought together her ardour for nature and her motherland with her sagacity of Ayurveda to conceptualise Purearth in 2012. Today, over a decade later, Purearth’s products have made their way into the most exquisite boutiques in France, Australia and the United Kingdom as well as the clinics of dermatologists like Hyderabad-based Dr Varshini Reddy’s Glow Clinic and Pune-based Dr Pooja Talera Shah’s KOSA Wellbeing.

Khosa built Purearth on fundamental values such as transparency, sustainability, authenticity and eco-friendliness at a time when these terms weren’t requisite claims to market products. Miles away from greenwashing, Purearth’s communication on the website and the packaging of its products is reflective of its ethos with information corroborated by Provenance, a well-recognised sustainability communication technology firm. Purearth’s in-house charitable organisation Pure Purpose Foundation runs a bunch of initiatives towards the welfare of women in the Himalayas, where most of the ingredients are sourced from. We speak to Khosa about the brand’s journey and how she conceptualised and fabricated Purearth’s award-winning products. 

What inspired the idea of Purearth back in 2012?

The idea of Purearth (from the earth) was in my mind for over two decades, a skincare or beauty brand—never. I often say that I was perhaps a tree in many of my past lives; I feel this affinity with the soil, and observe trees wherever I go. I took the well-trodden path — as a successful lawyer, a successful banker, but always knew that I would come back to India, the land of my birth. So, when my children were old enough, I quit my job in 2010 to fulfil my destiny, my raison d’être and the larger meaning of my existence. I did not want to start a charity or a business really. I am a reluctant entrepreneur. When I started Purearth, I  was approached by so many organisations in Hong Kong to focus on work in China — leprosy and water treatment projects being some of them. But I have to be honest, what drives my passion is my people— women of my ethnicity—in India and I wanted to come back and work in India nowhere else.  So with a blank canvas I embarked on this voyage into the trans Himalayas. I knew what I wanted to achieve—social impact, income generation and women welfare in India. 

I wasn’t quitting my well-paying job to start a business, nor was I quitting to set up a charity; my friends and family couldn’t understand what I was up to. Nobody grasped the concept of a ‘social enterprise’ where you’re not giving fish but teaching the women to fish. I don’t understand textile, fashion or pottery but I did study Ayurveda formally and grew up truly immersed in it. Since my trip to Tibet and the Himalayas left an indelible impression on me, I knew that’s where Purearth’s home would be, and with that thought, I took off. 

After speaking with a bunch of people and connecting with various NGOs, self-help groups, farmers and women, Purearth was born. What started in 2011 has resulted in the creation of such prized relationships with individuals whom I now consider my extended family. I wake up every morning feeling so excited about what I do. And, I hope to leave a legacy behind in the form of Purearth.

How do the products embody the wisdom of Ayurveda?

I have been very close to nature; I feel one with trees. And so, I always wanted to come back to doing what I am doing now. When I quit White & Case (the law firm I was working at), I took a sabbatical and was studying Vedanta and Ayurveda and started a yoga school in Hong Kong. I was conducting Bhagwad Geeta classes at the Hong Kong Stock Exchange. This was back in 2003. I formally studied Ayurveda in 2001 with cassette tapes shipped to me from the Ayurvedic Institute by Dr Vasant Lad and Dr Robert Svoboda. I am originally from Pune. In 2019, when Purearth was already well-established, I went back to Pune and took up a four-month-long class at Sadashiv Peth. I was amazed by how I was able to apprehend Sanskrit and Marathi texts without learning them ever in my life. I also did a one year Diploma and studied Advanced Organic Cosmetic Science—it taught me everything about ingredients, formulations, pH values—basically everything green chemistry.

I also signed up for numerous classes on Ayurveda and subsequently poured that knowledge into Purearth’s products. Today, when I sit with the scientists and formulators and give my share of feedback and iterations, they’re a little surprised by how someone actually knows the nitty gritty [of green chemistry]. So studying both Ayurveda and science-backed green chemistry combined with endless trials in my lab helped me curate products that reflect the wisdom of Ayurveda perfectly and honestly.

Was it always a conscious choice to mould Purearth into a luxury beauty brand?

Yes, because it’s a proudly made-in-India brand. And, the current perception—not towards fashion or lifestyle, but homegrown beauty—isn’t what I’d like it to be. The reality is that a skincare brand from India is still not considered to be at par with an organic Swedish beauty brand (or even an Ayurvedic Swedish beauty brand) championing green chemistry. It is a challenge to break barriers and perception. I wanted to see a clean and Indian Ayurvedic brand become global and mainstream that is also luxurious not because of its prices but the the rarity of precious ingredients and the quality of craftsmanship that go into the formulations. Remember, clean beauty and Ayurveda are not always synonymous. The association of  cheap plastic dusty packaging and questionable quality of an Ayurvedic product must change. I wanted to make that [the typical cheap plastic packaging and dubious quality] a thing of the past and conceive a brand that is ready to enter the global market. Moreover, ethics and aesthetics don’t have to be mutually exclusive—you can have a brand that feels and looks beautiful aesthetically, and make sure it’s ethical too. 

As a consumer, what gaps did you notice in the clean and toxin-free beauty segment back in the day, despite a couple of beauty brands along those lines already existing?

In 2011/2012, there were a few beauty brands in India that were based on Ayurveda and positioned themselves as luxury brands. But if you ask me whether I noticed a difference? Huge, huge differences—transparency and traceability of ingredients being the biggest factors. Back then, everything was hidden behind the term ‘QS’—short for the Latin term Quantum satis—under which toxic shit like parabens, SLS, sulphates and dimethicone were concealed while aloe vera or ashwagandha were hailed as key ingredients. From the outset, Purearth’s packaging has always declared all ingredients in ascending order of their percentages in the product. 

Additionally, we have obtained (and maintained) all the certifications much before it was a trend for brands to reveal claims. As soon as we launched the brand, we went for the CPNP (Cosmetic Products Notification Portal) 1229 EU certification—the most stringent standard possible. We immediately also applied for—not PETA, or not just pasting the term cruelty-free on the packaging but—Cruelty Free International certification; if I am not mistaken, we are the only Indian beauty brand to have the Cruelty Free International certification. Working with farmers on a fair trade basis and ingredients that imply traceability was something we took seriously even then. And none of this was happening when we launched Purearth back in the day.

You’re an advocate of transparency and authenticity. How do you ensure your products and brand personify these values through and through?

Our brand’s tagline is ‘Equal. Ethical. Ecological’. Plus, ethics was my favourite subject in my LLB courses, so I’ve been talking about ethics and ethical beauty ever since I wrote out the manifesto for of Purearth in 2011. 

As CEO, I stand behind the brand and am the face of the brand in one sense. Every single ingredient, formulation and every element of plastic including glass, bioplastic, paper has me involved in it personally. The brand rests on my personal assurance. And, through the process, I make sure every single element of my brand and the products reflects our ethos to the fullest capacity. 

For instance, our packaging is FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified. And, when I say that, I don’t mean using paper from a company that is simply FSC-certified, which is what typically happens in India. I mean ensuring that the chain of custody is intact in every step of the process, including transportation and printing, is also FSC-certified. I had to go through endless vendors and request them to implement a (printing) process that also adhered to the FSC standards. Also, we work with Provenance HQ and use blockchain technology to evidence and verify the traceability and origin of our ingredients and processes. We are really proud of what we’ve put into every bottle.

Why do you think a traditional concept such as Ayurveda is still relevant to modern consumers, especially with respect to beauty?

During the pandemic, everyone turned from fashion to skincare, it became the ‘it’ thing on social media. Subsequently, everyone started taking notice of the ingredients and compounds that go into the formulations of the products they use. But, what also garnered sharp focus was health, wellness and well-being. And therefore, Ayurveda came under the spotlight once again. Skincare is akin to self-care, and so, people delved into Ayurveda at a deeper level during the pandemic, owing to the focus on de-stressing and wellness, and adopted it. However, I still feel there’s more misinformation than information, but I guess we’re headed in the right direction.

What are your thoughts on the massive greenwashing in the present day’s “clean” beauty segment? And, how can a consumer read between the lines?

As a consumer, we make choices with every purchase we make, and how it impacts the planet. And so, I always say—buyer, beware. Remember, everything works on demand, so when the consumer gets up and questions and challenges the status quo and also realises that their choice, their vote can bring about a change, and brands will have to follow suit by complying and catering to the demand. A consumer needs to educate themselves, realise their power and be agents of change. We can see the change that came through in the case of SLS, mineral oil, parabens—today, people know, care about and demand paraben-free products, and so, brands have had to respond with SLS- and paraben-free products. Consumers need not leave the onus on the brand.

Today, your products are amongst the favourites of celebrities such as Mira Kapoor and Lisa Ray—how does that feel?

 It is definitely great validation that reinforces my commitment to my work. We’ve never paid any influencers, celebrities or experts to review or promote any of our products to date. When such beauty enthusiasts talk about Purearth’s products, it feels like the honesty, authenticity and transparency have been recognised. I believe in putting my head down and pouring my heart into the work I do. We’re certainly not the biggest brand out there, but we're acknowledged as an ethical beauty brand globally.

Considering every product combines the science of Ayurveda with the art of experience, what does the process of conceiving a product look like?

More failure than success; pulling my hair out and wanting to give it all up. We’ve been pioneers in the uncharted territory of clean and conscious beauty, which undoubtedly involves challenges, endless rounds of trials, years of testing, inspected ingredient sourcing from the most remote corners of the Himalayas and potent yet rich and clean formulations. In fact, I can say that before Purearth, no beauty brand was talking about GMOs (genetically modified organisms) or ethical beauty standards. I’ve faced insurmountable challenges, but that’s where perseverance and patience come into the picture.

In the wellness-first age, how do Purearth and its offerings support one’s wellness journey?

Many of us are currently seeking a closer connection to the Earth, through immersive experiences and a desire for wellness and simplicity. Purearth is helming this with discernment for what is truly worth celebrating: the deep thread of infinite wisdom from ancient communities, the beauty of solah shringar (the traditional 16 bridal adornments)—celebrating feminine shakti (power) and slow beauty that nourishes the skin and the senses.

What are five Ayurvedic beauty and wellness practices/rituals you recommend everyone to follow?

Ubtan and lepana (masking); nasya, especially pratimarsha nasal oiling; jalneti (nasal cleansing); mukha abhyanga and abhyanga and netra basti (ghee immersion for bright sparkly eyes—it’s a personal obsession).

What are five common everyday actions/practices one must keep away from, in the interest of their skin's health and wellness?

Overuse/layering too many products—let your skin breathe; misuse of products like retinol, acids and peels—pigmentation can come back with a vengeance; chemical sunscreen—please be kind to your skin, your organs and the marine life and opt for physical sunscreens; always remember that processed sugar, stress and smoking will only make your skin dull, discoloured, parched and patchy and heat is poison for your hair—hot water, blow drying, chemical treatments can all damage the hair.

Lastly, what’s the one Purearth product that you'd recommend to everyone?

The Kwansha Facial Beauty Coin—the first-of-its-kind patent-pending kansa (or bronze, which comprises a mixture of 88 per cent copper and 12 per cent tin) gua sha coin to sculpt, shape and tone the skin.

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