Do you really need exfoliating pads?

The K-beauty spin-off is quickly attaining forward-looking product status. We investigate if it really is a must-have

Love it or hate it, but you can’t ignore it. We’re talking about exfoliation—a skincare action with puissant abilities to reveal the skin of your dreams. Surprising as it may sound, exfoliation (or scrubbing) has been a part of our traditional beauty rituals for years together. Natural kitchen ingredients like yoghurt or dahi, gram flour mix or besan and Fuller’s Earth or multani mitti have played an integral role in the daily lives of women since ancient times. But let’s be honest, in spite of the rich history of the practice as well its newer Y2K iterations (think scrubs made out of sea salt or charcoal), exfoliation is still subjected to a lot of controversy and trepidation, especially amongst woke skincare users. That’s how chemical exfoliation carved a niche for itself. Today, everyone owns at least one product containing AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) or BHA (beta hydroxy acids), reflecting both a sense of awareness and the tendency to explore. As a result, consumers are now moving on from serums and toners to using ‘exfoliation pads,’ also known as ‘peel pads’. Here’s a primer on the product you didn’t know you needed. 

What are exfoliation pads?

In simple terms, exfoliation pads are round, textured pads drenched in chemical exfoliants. Dr Kiran Sethi, celebrity dermatologist and founder, Isya Aesthetics explains, “Exfoliating pads or peel pads are impregnated with acids like salicylic acid (a BHA) or alpha hydroxy acids designed to force skin cell turnover to renew skin, ultimately brightening it, softening it, reducing acne and improving pigmentation, depending on the type of acid.” 

“These wipe pads are soaked in a pre-mixed solution of chemical exfoliating ingredients like glycolic acid, lactic acid and, many a times, a mixture of several acids,” adds Shaily Mehrotra, CEO and founder of Fixderma. Most skincare brands claim that such pads are the easiest medium to indulge in chemical exfoliation sans bottles of serums or toners. “Chemical exfoliation is a process wherein alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) or enzymes are used to help loosen the bond that holds dead skin cells together so that they can be totally removed,” highlights Janvi Kapadia, brand manager, Quench Botanics.  

How beneficial are they?

“Peel pads are essentially a tool for chemical exfoliation, good for one-time use,” says Mehrotra. But that’s not it. Kapadia believes that they can combine the benefits of chemical and physical or mechanical exfoliation in just a few swipes. “Mechanical exfoliation usually involves usage of facial brushes, microdermabrasion treatments or beaded face scrubs to remove dead skin while chemical exfoliation is gentler in approach and involves usage of alpha and beta hydroxy acids to dissolve the dead skin surface build-up. Peeling pads have two sides—while one has microgrids, which add the element of mechanical exfoliation, the other side is comparatively smoother, meant for gentler exfoliation,” she elucidates. The benefits? Much like any other means of exfoliation, sans the damage. “The benefits’ sheet includes the removal of dry, dull skin, correcting and evening out the skin’s texture and assisting with hyperpigmentation and acne,” shares Mehrotra.

Additionally, Kapadia states, “The Quench Botanics Mama Cica Instabright Peel Pads are powered by glycolic acid and natural papaya extracts. They are pre-soaked and help with dull, uneven skin tone and rough texture, leaving you with supple, smooth and spotless skin over regular use. They take care of skin concerns such as blackheads, open pores, oiliness, bumpy skin and pigmentation. Peel pads are easy to use and ideal for beginners too.” 

Kapadia also points out the convenience factor attached to such peel pads. “The in-office peeling sessions require some downtime. You sit with it for 10-15 minutes to see a difference. Peel pads, however, show an instant difference post application and are gentle on the skin, without causing any irritation.” And, if the word ‘peel’ has been intimidating you all this while, don’t worry; these pads aren’t peeling off anything. In fact, they aren’t even as potent as peeling solutions that are powered by high concentrations of AHAs and BHAs. On the contrary, they thrive on the principles of being gentle, time- and cost-effective and an on-the-go solution for visibly better-looking skin. The only con? Such exfoliating pads are always single-use.  

Should you be investing in them?

The answer to this is subjective because two people can never have the same set of influencing factors to make a purchase. But if you prefer easy-peasy, straightforward skincare and vote for chemical exfoliation over gritty, abrasive scrubs, you’re bound to enjoy peeling pads. Both Kapadia and Mehrotra believe that exfoliating pads are good enough to replace physical scrubs, toners and serums (that are enriched with exfoliative AHAs and BHAs).

However, Sethi thinks slightly differently. “Exfoliating pads can replace a toner or physical scrub but not a serum,” she says. “To begin with, use it 1-2 times a week and continue to do so unless your skin is very oily. You can even use it almost every day, but slowly build up and if you experience any sensitivity, stop using it,” advises Sethi. When it comes to choosing the right set of peel pads, Sethi says, “Acne-prone skin should use BHAs, sensitive skin should use PHAs and in case of pigmentation, use glycolic and lactic acid.” According to Kapadia, “Glycolic acid is the gold standard of exfoliation. Since most Indian people have higher than average melanin in their skin, the glycolic acid in such pads—that is known for lightening spots and boosting radiance—works wonderfully for us.”

Word of caution 

“They can counteract if you are using too many acids (or actives) in face washes, toners, essences, serums or creams. The correct way to deal with it is to stop everything at first and slowly add products into the routine,” suggests Sethi. Talking about the perilous ingredient mixing, Kapadia recommends, “If you’re using an AHA like glycolic acid, make sure you don’t mix it with other harsh skincare actives like retinoids. Avoid using it with vitamin C, too, as it is highly unstable and can mess up the pH of your skin if combined with the wrong ingredients, rendering it useless. Instead, try mixing it with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and ceramides.”

The thumb rule: consult a dermatologist, especially if the results aren’t as expected or the product doesn’t work as planned. “We always recommend testing and knowing the exact skin issues, your skin type and allergies. Introduce the treatment after consulting with your dermatologist. One should always start with low frequency and concentration,” says Mehrotra. 

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