Are acrylic and gel manicures actually bad for you?

From weakened nails to a risk of cancer, there’s a lot of chatter around the effects of semi-permanent nail products

The feeling of a fresh manicure is akin to that of a fresh haircut—you feel like a brand-new person. Among the many different types of manicure techniques that are popular, acrylic and gel manicures have gained traction in recent times. As processes that take about an hour once every few weeks, they make for apt grooming picks. However, amongst the wave of making cleaner beauty choices and overall health and wellness a priority, acrylic and gel manicures also seem to have developed a bad reputation. We speak with Yaimi Mungleng, senior nail technician at The White Door India, a luxury salon and spa in Mumbai, to dish out the truth.

Understanding acrylic and gel manicures

Both acrylic and gel manicures can be of two types: One, wherein the product is applied directly onto your natural nails, and two, when you add on extensions for length and then have the product applied over them. In the case of acrylic nails, Mungleng shares, “The nail technician cleans, buffs, and trims the nails, a nail primer may also be used to remove the moisture from the nail, and then the acrylic procedure commences. They will go in with a brush by dipping down into the acrylic liquid and then quickly into the acrylic powder before applying it to the nail, ensuring a thin, even coat.” Acrylic nails don’t require a UV light at this stage to cure the product. That comes into play when you apply gel nail polish over it. 

Mungleng tells us about the different types of gel overlays. “There are hard and soft gel overlays—while the former helps with a more long-lasting nail fix, the latter is preferred for a client who wants a more natural bend and natural-looking fix.” She goes on to explain how a gel manicure differs from an acrylic one. “The nails are prepared by using a cuticle pusher, cleaned with dust-free pads and primed, after which the builder gel coat is applied to the nail with a brush, and finally, cured under the UV light source.”

For both gel and acrylic overlays, after they have set, your nails are buffed and filed to ensure they’re in perfect shape for your polish application. “The technician will then apply your desired gel polish—one to two coats depending on how defined you want the colour to appear. Finally, to seal everything in they will use a top coat, before it is cured once again.”

Gel manicure versus acrylic manicure

“Gel overlays are preferred by customers who frequent the salon often, as it does not last as long as an acrylic overlay would,” says Mungleng. “A gel overlay will not stain, fracture or deplete the nail health as much as acrylics are known to. It will look more natural than the acrylic which appears slightly more done up. Both carry their own set of benefits in terms of longevity and overall look and feel; however, the gel overlays will help preserve the nail bed better and will cause less damage in the long run.”

The choice also comes down to your natural nail health. If you have naturally healthy nails, you can get away with frequent acrylic manicures. If not, opt for gel. 

A parallel nail-care guide

How you care for your nails during the downtime every few months (which is highly recommended) makes all the difference. “Invest in a nourishing nail oil or serum, especially if you indulge in aesthetic nail services on a regular basis. A hydrating manicure is a great way to help with post-care, a nail hardener can also help maintain the strength and integrity of the nail bed. Try cutting your nails short in intervals when you have bare nails so that they are not prone to break or fracture, as they would be weaker post an acrylic or gel manicure,” advises Mungleng. 

The role of UV exposure 

According to the American Academy of Dermatology Association, “Gel manicures can cause nail brittleness, peeling and cracking, and repeated use can increase the risk for skin cancer and premature skin ageing on the hands.” Apart from the aforementioned nailcare and sterilisation tips, they recommend wearing a broad spectrum and water-resistant sunscreen on your hands before getting a gel or acrylic manicure (wherein gel polish application leads to UV exposure) to reduce the risk.

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