Amongst an ocean of Indian beauty brands, is there room for more?

We speak with industry experts to get an insight into what we’re doing right, and what we’re hoping for in the future

Even if your Instagram usage is well within acceptable limits (good on you!), it’s likely you come across a new beauty brand or product every few days. According to a study by Infogence Global Research, “India's Beauty and Personal Care Market is estimated to be US$ 24.53 billion in 2022 and is expected to reach US$ 33.33 billion by 2027.” It’s no surprise that there are as many formulas entering the market, creating a flurry of endless options, and on the flip side, a fair bit of confusion for shoppers. 

As the local market booms, are you ready to embrace homegrown beauty or still inclined towards international names? Every week or so, I find myself reading about the acquisition of a new Indian beauty brand by a larger conglomerate, a big chunk of funding raised or a mega Bollywood celebrity’s association with a local beauty label. There is money being spent and money being earned, but are brands truly able to deliver when it comes to the consumers’ demands? Two beauty editors with decades of experience between them—and, who have seen the beauty industry in India grow from a handful of local brands to the billions it is worth today—share their thoughts on the products that come our way and what the consumer really wants.

Where Indian beauty brands win

“Indian brands understand the local consumer instinctively and that is their biggest strength,” says Geeta Rao, former beauty editor, Vogue India and founder, Geeta’s List. Brands like Dr. Sheth’s address the fact that they’re made for Indian skin, acknowledging our specific concerns and creating a vast range of products that truly address our most prominent issues like pigmentation and acne. “Many of the founders are people who realised that international brands just didn't have the right formulation, colour or blend to suit Indian skin or hair and went about creating something that they could use. They broke the top-down ‘West is best’ attitude towards beauty and have brought a sense of pride to the ‘Made in India’ label.”

Some of Rao’s favourite beauty brands include Juicy Chemistry, Daughter Earth, Ilana Organics, Ras Luxury Oils and Dr Sheth's. “In some cases, I have known the founders at the start of their careers and seen their passion and commitment, or have seen them grow from single-product offerings to a wide product range, and I see how well they have managed this process. But mostly, it’s because they are trying to do something different and create good, hard-working products that have remained consistent in quality. For make-up, I find Kay By Katrina to be an excellently thought-out brand which delivers on both quality and value for money, and does not depend entirely on the fact [that] it is helmed by a star.”

The Ayurveda obsession

Beauty has been an inherent part of Indian culture for centuries together, and Ayurveda has helped lead the way. Most Indian beauty brands are capitalising on the country-wide–and now global–love for traditional medicine, and there are two reasons why. Firstly, these ingredients have been tried and tested for centuries, used by generations of Indians with positive results. Secondly, they’re not as intimidating as unfamiliar, international ingredients can be. The most prominent change that the industry has seen, which is where the valuation increase comes in as well, is the idea of home remedies that are now bottled. However, the number of brands that have been able to create Ayurveda-based products and position themselves at a global level is only a handful. “What we’re missing is the finesse and attention to detail,” explains Vasudha Rai, former beauty director, Harper’s Bazaar India and author of the books, Glow: Indian Foods, Recipes and Rituals for Beauty Inside Out (2018) and Ritual: Daily Practices for Wellness, Beauty & Bliss (releasing October 2022). “Most brands, including the ones I love, are still a bit rough around the edges, especially when it comes to packaging and labelling. The products aren’t easy to open or ergonomic, plus it feels inexpensive. We have a lot of great products—for instance, a herbal hair cleansing powder that I used from a local brand is phenomenal. But the way it is packaged means that it just cannot stand a chance in the international market.” One of Rai’s favourite Ayurvedic brands is Kama Ayurveda, “because they have elevated basic Ayurvedic formulations.”

Where Indian brands need to step up their game

“What brands often don't get right is the rigour and research required for a truly successful beauty label, and tend to become an Indian version of a Western brand’s architecture,” explains Rao. Moreover, labelling and certification is a big cause for concern in the Indian beauty industry with weak government regulations. According to a Mintel report published earlier this year, 42 per cent of Indian consumers have shown a preference towards natural beauty products and 50 per cent of this group demanded that brand claims should be verified. “Certifications are an area that Indian brands must focus on especially when you make claims about being vegan, organic, eco-friendly or sustainable. I am surprised to see how many brands simply become organic by calling themselves organic,” adds Rao.  

“While there is an abundance of brands in the market, there is a lack of refinement in the packaging and product lines,” says Rai. “I love some Indian products but usually it’s one product out of the whole range which tends to be clichéd. Consider Ranavat. It’s an international brand but it is made in Gujarat. Of course, the products are packaged in tubes that come from Germany. But it is an example of an elegant brand, both in terms of packaging, social media messaging and formulations.”

BEAUTY&YOU India: A step in the right direction?

A few months ago, Nykaa and Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) came together to launch BEAUTY&YOU India, an initiative to help emerging Indian beauty brands create, grow and scale with the expertise and financial support of both industry bigwigs, without having to give away equity at the beginning of their journey itself. "The tailwinds that are driving the rapid growth in India's BPC (Beauty and Personal Care) segment are awareness and access, where Nykaa has played a very important role. We have not just been able to democratise access to beauty for consumers but also access to beauty consumers for brands and that's why we chose to launch this programme now,” says Anchit Nayar, Nykaa’s CEO-Beauty E-commerce, and the person spearheading this initiative along with ELC. Nayar hopes for quality brands to emerge from the support they’re able to provide, those with the potential to represent the industry on a global scale.

Where do we go from here?

With people the world over jumping on board Indian beauty and wellness trends, whether it’s yoga or an Ayurveda-inspired diet or beauty recipe, there isn’t a significant demand for local brands overseas. “One of the biggest regrets we should have as an industry is that we have not been able to give the world the big Indian beauty brand–one like Shiseido, that changed the approach to skincare based on its own culture and ingredients,” says Rao. “We have sadly missed the Ayurveda boat because we didn't patent it, so anyone can use turmeric and ashwagandha and be Ayurveda-inspired. We need to get the Indian luxury beauty consumer excited enough about brands to be willing to spend the same amount on an Indian label as they would on a luxury French or Swiss clinical brand.”

Like Rao, Rai agrees that there is room for more, as long as the industry is taking note and choosing to do better. “We need to have more refined brands coming from India, made by Indians, that can be stocked at Net-A-Porter, shoulder-to-shoulder with any international brand. We have all the raw material and knowledge, we just need attention to detail. That will not only catapult Indian brands on an international level but also provide Indian customers the satisfaction of getting their money’s worth,” says Rai.

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