6 toxic ingredients in eye make-up to steer clear of

Most eye make-up products contain ingredients that should be nowhere close to your face. Experts weigh in on the most problematic ones and why you should be watching out for them

A stick of kajal is, perhaps, every girl’s first encounter with eye make-up, followed by a felt-tip liner, gel pot eyeliner and mascara. Since your eyes are one of the most sensitive organs—easily susceptible to allergies and bacterial infections—the eye make-up you indulge in must be free of toxic chemicals. “While the skin has a natural barrier to keep toxins from entering the body, they still are able to make their way through the skin. The toxins from chemical-heavy make-up could cause many health concerns,” says Vasundhara Patni, founder, Kiro Beauty. While we’re aware of the ill-effects of parabens, there’s a slew of other noxious ingredients enshrouded in fine print on product labels. Here are some of the most hazardous compounds you must be wary of.

Carbon black

Love a good jet-black finish from your eye make-up? Carbon black renders just that. “Carbon black has been used in kohl or eye pencils, mascaras, eyeshadows and even blushes and foundations for decades as it is cheap and easily acquired. Commercial carbon black, in particular, has organic contaminants such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which have been identified as human carcinogens,” shares Rubeina Karachiwalla, founder, Ruby’s Organics.

Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder, Yavana Aesthetics reveals that the carbon black used in cosmetics undergoes a process called ‘incomplete combustion,’ involving materials like coal tar, ethylene and crackling tar. “While it is used in small amounts, the cumulative effect can make a person vulnerable to skin cancer. When applied inside the lash line, the carbon black can block the tear glands, eventually causing dry eyes and irritation.” 

The toxin usually goes by the names acetylene black, channel black, D & C Black No. 2, lamp black, furnace black and thermal black.

Ethanolamine compounds

This ingredient is an adherent liquid comprising high amounts of alcohol and is usually used in eyeliner, eyeshadow and mascara. “These compounds alter the pH of a product, so the usage levels are very low. You must be more careful about this ingredient in leave-on products like moisturisers or sunscreens or perhaps, make-up,” shares Dr Renita Rajan, founder, RENDER Skin & Hair.

Ethanolamine compounds carry some carcinogenic potential, too. Agarwal blames the compound nitrosamines for this—a primary menace for your liver and kidneys. Research proves that approximately 70-85 per cent of nitrosamines are carcinogenic. “Ethanolamine also has the potential to cause skin allergies and irritation,” adds Agarwal.

To keep away from ethanolamine compounds, avoid products whose packaging includes terms like DEA, TEA and MEA. Lauramide DEA, Linoleamide MEA, TEA-lauryl sulphate and Cocamide MEA are some examples.

Prime yellow carnauba wax

In tropical weather, when most make-up is likely to turn into a mess, waterproof eye make-up can set things right. However, this also means that the product potentially contains prime yellow carnauba wax—a vegetable wax derived from the leaves of the Copernicia Cerifera, a tree native to Brazil—that helps to congeal the product while endowing water resistance. It is a rather widely used ingredient, but an absolute no-no for those with ultra-sensitive eyes as it can compromise vision and reduce the moisture in your eyes. “When it is applied as eye mascara or liner, it can clog the oil glands which reduces the natural moisture over the eyeball, leading to dry eyes or issues like itching, burning and even blurry vision,” affirms Agarwal.

To identify prime yellow carnauba wax, look for terms like Copernicia prunifera and Brazil wax on the label.

Benzalkonium chloride (BAK)

Just like parabens, benzalkonium chloride (BAK) is a preservative that increases the shelf life of the product while keeping it stable. While it hasn’t copped the former’s bad rep yet, it can prove to be a menace when used in higher concentrations (anything over 0.1 per cent). “The problem with BAK is ecotoxicity,” points out Rajan. “It is toxic in its own form as well as in its interaction with other toxins in effluents.” Much to your surprise, this preservative is also used in some eye drops, and has led to cases of dry eyes, irritation, inflammation and disrupted corneal surface (the barrier that protects eyes from dust and infections).

Common monikers for BAK on labels include benzalkonium chloride, quaternium-15 or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

Formaldehyde

Unlike other synthetic chemicals, formaldehyde is a naturally-occurring substance in living organisms and fruits, too. However, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified it as a carcinogen; the inhalation of its fumes being the most prominent trigger. “Formaldehyde-containing products or formaldehyde-generating products have risks of carcinogenicity. Hence, it is best to limit them or completely avoid them if alternatives are available,” shares Rajan. Agarwal adds that it could be a potential stimulant for allergic reactions, too. Though the ingredient is more common in skincare and hair treatment products, being a preservative, it can make its way to any make-up product —an eyelash glue, for instance.

Formaldehyde can be detected as Quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, urea and methylene glycol on labels.

Lead

“When it comes to traditional eye make-up like surma and kajal, they have been proven to contain very high levels of lead, even up to 70 per cent in traditional preparations, made from agents like kohl stone,” reveals Rajan. We’ve all bashed and banned foods containing lead at some point, but its presence is active in your vanity, too. “Lead is never meant to be used in any make-up products as per FDA rules,” discloses Agarwal. It can get absorbed rapidly into the skin and affect the heart and nervous system. Additionally, superfluous exposure to lead has also been linked with serious ailments like anaemia and seizures.

The packaging may host lead through terms like lead acetate, lead oxide and beta lead monoxide.

What else should you know?

To keep away from pesky chemicals, it’s best to opt for picks from clean make-up brands that abstain from using such toxins and are transparent about disclosing each ingredient that they employ in their products. You don’t necessarily need to worry about the performance. You must also be mindful of the certifications that back a product. For example, the Ecocert COSMOS Certification suggests that a product is natural and organic. Try homegrown brands like Kiro, Color Chemistry, Ruby’s Organics, Forest Essentials, Disguise Cosmetics and asa beauty for make-up that’s good for you.

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