Why is everyone talking about Malay food in India right now?

The recipe to the buzz around Malay cuisine in India: a link to the past, a love for spice, and a jump in tourism

For the ordinary urban Indian who came of age in the 1980s, '90s or 2000s, for whom food delivery and exotic pop-ups were a faraway reality, there was only one way to enjoy southeast Asian delicacies—at reliable neighbourhood restaurants whose fare went high on flavour and low on authenticity. For Sanchit Sahu, executive chef at Bangkok’s Jhol, the journey was, however, a little different: It was at a boarding school in the Nilgiris, years before his stint in Malaysia’s Langkawi, that he enjoyed his first taste of the country’s cuisine, which brings together the flavours of Chinese, Chettinad, and Indian Muslim culinary traditions.

His years at Manipal University in the 2010s, where he studied hotel administration, only deepened his affinity for piquant Malay dishes. “Higher education, particularly medical colleges, brought scores of Malay kids to Manipal. Food stalls and restaurants on campus catered to them; for all of ₹70, you could enjoy a satisfying plate of sambal, rice, and poriyal,” he recounts nostalgically.

In nearby Bengaluru, a hunger to cook Malay food brewed in the kitchen of Chef ‘Suni’ or Sunitha, a Malaysian expat who moved to India 30 years ago. Sunitha, who runs Bungaraya Malaysian Home Food with her daughter, patiently waited until 2019 when vital ingredients like shrimp paste and anchovies became more accessible. Today, she is proud to grow her own pandan leaves and galangal, and deliver homely meals to a regular clientele made up of curious Indian eaters as well as fellow Malay expats. “My nasi goreng, satay, and laksa are favourites,” says the home chef whose ancestors hailed from Kerala.

The newest kid on the Malay block in Bengaluru is Kopitiam Lah, which follows in the tradition of coffee shops that are integral to the Malaysian social fabric. Set up by Hokkien immigrants, these ‘kopitiams’ serve Hainanese roast ‘kopi’, sweetened with condensed milk and gossip. Joonie Tan, an expat and co-founder of the Lavonne Hospitality eatery, is at the very heart of this first-of-its-kind institution set up in July 2024. Only four months in, and its soft eggs with soy and roti bakar have already carved their own niche in Bengaluru’s hectic coffee shop segment. 

From Kopitiam Lah’s audaciousness to the beloved presence of home kitchens like Sunitha’s, Malay food’s hold over the desi palette is now undeniable. But what makes a cuisine from over 5,000 kilometres away coveted in India, especially the southern part of the country?

Malaysian food: Simmered and slow-cooked in history

“Malaysian cuisine sits at a beautiful intersection of familiarity and novelty, making it perfect for Bengaluru’s curious and evolving food scene,” says Tan. She and the other players The Established spoke to all shared how known ingredients—coconut milk, spices, chillies, coriander—and similarities in preparation had earned Malay food a reliable fan base in India. The newest kid on the Malay block in Bengaluru is Kopitiam Lah“Dishes like laksa (a spicy noodle soup made with coconut milk), roti canai (a flatbread akin to flaky parathas), and nasi lemak (a holistic dish comprising coconut rice, anchovies, chilli sauce, and peanuts, among other elements) share parallels with Indian favourites yet offer their own distinct twists, encouraging people to explore and enjoy something new without straying too far from familiar tastes,” adds Tan. The more adventurous, unfamiliar territory lies in the Chinese elements and Hainanese influences, but Sunitha has found that even those dishes—like the comforting Hainanese chicken rice—have a great demand.

Sahu remarks that it is the spice note, which is not as prominent in other southeast Asian cuisines, that further sets Malay food apart. This bold, piquant nature, and the interplay of cooking traditions, can be traced to the region’s trade and colonial history. An important centre for spices on the way to the East Indies, and later a critical territory on the map of British imperialism, it was witness to the migration of people—Hindu and Muslim—from the Indian subcontinent. 

Seasoned palettes, committed cooks

That the minds behind Kopitiam Lah chose to launch a coffee-forward dining experience over a traditional multi-course restaurant perhaps says that India, or Bengaluru, specifically, is ready for a more in-depth exploration of Malay cuisine beyond the staples. “Our vision was always to create more than just a restaurant… A kopitiam is such a vibrant part of Malaysian life. It’s a communal space where locals gather for conversation, a quick meal, or to savour perfectly brewed coffee. We felt that bringing this to Bengaluru, with its thriving cafe culture and openness to new experiences, would truly resonate with the community here,” says Tan.

With the expertise of Chef Darren Teoh of the two-Michelin-starred Dewakan in Kuala Lumpur and David D’Souza (Head Chef at the restaurant), Tan embarked on a deeply personal journey of curating the menu. It is the reason why buttery, silken kaya toast—a simple classic at kopitiams—is on offer alongside more elaborate dishes like otak otak, a fish cake wrapped in leaves and then grilled.

Players big and small have found that patrons—new and regular—are seeking out authenticity, a now normalised expectation from specialty restaurants. “They’re seeking more than just a meal; they want an experience that feels true to the spirit of Malaysia, from the flavours on the plate to the warm, community-centred vibe of a kopitiam,” says Tan, “This expectation keeps us committed to serving dishes that are not only true to their origins but also prepared with the techniques and ingredients that make Malaysian food so unique.”

For the crew at the Chennai-based Pandan Club, India’s first modern ‘peranakan’ (a blend of cooking traditions dating back to the 15th Century) restaurant, this means bringing mindfulness to decision-making: choosing to work with chicken thighs rather than other cuts because traditional recipes insist on them. For Nasi and Mee, a restaurant chain with a presence in Chennai, Bengaluru, and Kochi, it is investing in imported coconut milk, even though an easier, more affordable option was available in southern India.

A commitment to authenticity is evident in the sourcing of ingredients. Manoj Padmanaban, who co-founded Pandan Club with Masterchef Australia winner Sashi Cheliah, shares that nearly 20 per cent of the restaurant’s essentials come from Singapore and Malaysia. These ingredients range from gula melaka (a type of jaggery) to malty Milo—which connoisseurs consider superior to the Indian variety, thanks to its understated sweetness.

Sahu wonders if the sheer variety of chicken dishes in Malay cooking, too, has a part to play in its popularity within India. “When it comes to Thai food, the staples are beef and pork, and finding vegetarian dishes proves challenging. Malay dishes, being halal and chicken-centred, come across as a viable option for those whose food choices are ‘safer’ and less exploratory,” he says.

The far-reaching impact of cultural exchange

“Did you know that the Indian lime, grown in Tiruchirappalli, has takers in Malay kitchens?” asks Padmanaban excitedly. The tart green citrus fruit is one among many manifestations of the give and take of food traditions and labour between the two countries. “In the early years of international travel in Tamil Nadu, particularly Chennai, Indians often took flights to Malaysia and Singapore. People from the southern part of the state often migrated to the region to pursue business and trade,” adds Padmanaban.

In fact, the restaurant industry in Malaysia features a number of Indian immigrants and Indian-origin citizens, occupying vital positions—from line cooks to owners of outlets. “You’ll find Indian-owned restaurants and food stalls all across Malaysia, from local mamak shops serving roti canai and teh tarik to fine-dining establishments,” says Tan. “Indian staff members are often integral to these establishments, contributing their skills and culinary expertise, especially in dishes with Indian influences, like mutton curry and nasi kandar.” Sahu recalls that in the Penang area particularly, entrepreneurial Malaysian Tamils run a majority of food businesses. 

Reflecting on the vision behind Pandan Club, Padmanaban says they wanted to offer fine dining outside of the five-star hotel setting, with an ambiance devoid of snootiness. Another objective was honing in on two cuisines rather than letting them “remain hidden in exhaustive menus”, as is sometimes the case at pan-Asian institutions. “I truly think we have contributed to Chennai residents’ exposure to Malay food—which has been bolstered by increased tourism to the region. Tourists who return from countries like Malaysia often hunt for outlets offering the same dishes so they can relive a cherished experience,” he says.

The introduction of visa-free entries in December 2023 to woo Indians has paid off for Malaysia, which raced to the fourth position from the eighth as the destination preferred by desi tourists. But even before this travel-friendly change, the country welcomed a whopping 472,000 Indians over nine months in 2023. Though they may seem unrelated, such figures do have a positive impact even for small home-run businesses like Sunitha’s.

As our conversation draws to a close, Sunitha prepares for a long but fulfilling day of cooking with her daughter; rather than aggressive social media promotion, the expat has always let the food speak for itself. For some, a bowl of piping hot laksa is a way to teleport to the streets of Kuala Lumpur. For others, like fellow Malaysians in India, it is a whiff of home in a faraway land. 

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