On our radar: 5 contemporary cafes in restored properties

Barry RodgersPublished on Dec 27, 2022

These 5 cafes in restored structures across India offer more than just food

With restaurateurs willing to give old structures a new lease on life, more and more spaces are becoming alluring to eat at.

With restaurateurs willing to give old properties a new lease on life, more and more spaces are becoming alluring to eat at

While cafes and restaurants continue to open in traditional commercial buildings across India, a new crew of risk-taking restaurateurs are investing in spaces that are non-traditional—from a more-than-a-century-old ice factory to a once-derelict bungalow. With architects and designers by their side, owners are reinventing these spaces into cooler, more modern locations to complement the cuisine they serve. Giving old spaces new life is part of the architectural movement known as adaptive reuse, which helps preserve history and eliminate the waste created by demolishing a building and erecting new constructions.

For decades, adaptive reuse has been a panacea for bridging conservation and the current needs for development. In addition, it has been considered an environmentally friendly approach to architectural conservation practices.

As preservation and gastronomy collaborate, the culinary scene in India has become ripe for reimagining historic buildings. These establishments are a testament to how history can improve a dining experience.

Bhawanipur House, KolkataOriginally built in 1907, this colonial bungalow, spanning three levels and spread across 11,000 square feet, has been restored to its former glory, with the entrance boasting a quaint yard with a fountain and pebbled walkway. The outer façade comes alive in shades of yellow and white, whereas the interiors have a running theme of black-and-white flooring in common areas and distinct colour-themed rooms. If the Mad Hatter were to organise a tea party in 2022, it would be held here. Image: Srimallya Maitra — **Bhawanipur House, Kolkata**
Originally built in 1907, this colonial bungalow, spanning three levels and spread across 11,000 square feet, has been restored to its former glory, with the entrance boasting a quaint yard with a fountain and pebbled walkway. The outer façade comes alive in shades of yellow and white, whereas the interiors have a running theme of black-and-white flooring in common areas and distinct colour-themed rooms. If the Mad Hatter were to organise a tea party in 2022, it would be held here. Image: Srimallya Maitra

KMC*, MumbaiNestled in the heritage building of Kitab Mahal in the city’s historic Fort area, KMC* is a space free of labels and boundaries. This co-working space-cum-cafe stimulates conversation about the mundane and esoteric, a place that feels young and old at the same time. From the typewriter at the entrance to the retained mezzanine floor, the pop-culture posters to the shelves stacked with books, and the in-house merchandise to the shutter-style windows, each element at KMC* has been carefully curated to bring together the old and new. — **KMC*, Mumbai**
Nestled in the heritage building of Kitab Mahal in the city’s historic Fort area, KMC* is a space free of labels and boundaries. This co-working space-cum-cafe stimulates conversation about the mundane and esoteric, a place that feels young and old at the same time. From the typewriter at the entrance to the retained mezzanine floor, the pop-culture posters to the shelves stacked with books, and the in-house merchandise to the shutter-style windows, each element at KMC* has been carefully curated to bring together the old and new.

Native Bombay, MumbaiPerched on the first floor of a 150-year-old ice factory, Native Bombay has taken shape from the previous owner’s home. Under Kamal Malik, founder of Malik Architecture and partner at IF.BE, the city’s newest experimental art and architecture space, the result is an imaginative starkness that has come through by peeling through layers of plaster and paint to expose an exquisite brick-and-wood structure, giving it renewed life while preserving its heritage. Like the process of building the space, the menu has also resulted from stepping back, taking in the unapologetic ‘Indian-ness’ of cross-country flavours, and presenting the very best on the plate. Image: Assad Dadan — **Native Bombay, Mumbai**
Perched on the first floor of a 150-year-old ice factory, Native Bombay has taken shape from the previous owner’s home. Under Kamal Malik, founder of Malik Architecture and partner at IF.BE, the city’s newest experimental art and architecture space, the result is an imaginative starkness that has come through by peeling through layers of plaster and paint to expose an exquisite brick-and-wood structure, giving it renewed life while preserving its heritage. Like the process of building the space, the menu has also resulted from stepping back, taking in the unapologetic ‘Indian-ness’ of cross-country flavours, and presenting the very best on the plate. Image: Assad Dadan

Off Limits Manali, Himachal PradeshThis quaint cafe serves hemp-infused food and drinks as part of the Sunshine Heritage guest house, a hotel-bunk-villa property in Manali. It is an example of Kath Kuni architecture, a legacy of a distinctive traditional building practice involving wood and stone that has survived and thrived in the Himalayas and is a natural extension of the knowledge of forbidding landscape, harsh climate, availability of local materials and tools. The resultant building practice is deeply rooted in the region’s environment, cultural practices and traditions. Built in 1944 by Major H M Banon, the structure’s vintage appeal highlights the property’s sustainable form of architecture. — **Off Limits Manali, Himachal Pradesh**
This quaint cafe serves hemp-infused food and drinks as part of the Sunshine Heritage guest house, a hotel-bunk-villa property in Manali. It is an example of Kath Kuni architecture, a legacy of a distinctive traditional building practice involving wood and stone that has survived and thrived in the Himalayas and is a natural extension of the knowledge of forbidding landscape, harsh climate, availability of local materials and tools. The resultant building practice is deeply rooted in the region’s environment, cultural practices and traditions. Built in 1944 by Major H M Banon, the structure’s vintage appeal highlights the property’s sustainable form of architecture.

one8 Commune, MumbaiEvery one8 Commune property is designed so as to contextualise the city it is located in, its surroundings, and the people. The Mumbai outpost in the suburb of Juhu is a homage to the late playback singer Kishore Kumar. Located in Kumar’s old bungalow, it celebrates the pluralism and humanism that being in the “commune” implies. Peppered with contemporary artworks and installations, the team behind the space’s restoration has carefully drawn attention to structure, space and circulation. Focusing on the details, they give a glimpse into the future of architecture and how the built environment can evolve over time. — **one8 Commune, Mumbai**
Every one8 Commune property is designed so as to contextualise the city it is located in, its surroundings, and the people. The Mumbai outpost in the suburb of Juhu is a homage to the late playback singer Kishore Kumar. Located in Kumar’s old bungalow, it celebrates the pluralism and humanism that being in the “commune” implies. Peppered with contemporary artworks and installations, the team behind the space’s restoration has carefully drawn attention to structure, space and circulation. Focusing on the details, they give a glimpse into the future of architecture and how the built environment can evolve over time.

Also Read: Is the sudden explosion of pan-Asian restaurants narrowing our tastes?

Also Read: Naming your restaurant is serious business

Also Read: The new restaurant survival strategy

These 5 cafes in restored structures across India offer more than just food

With restaurateurs willing to give old properties a new lease on life, more and more spaces are becoming alluring to eat at

Read Next

Subscribe for More