Luxury tourism in Ladakh is on the up—how eco-conscious is it in the long run?

In recent years, Ladakh's tourism landscape has been presenting new opportunities and challenges alike

Ladakh is undeniably unique, characterised by its stark, breathtaking terrain and its rich cultural tapestry. The region initially opened up to tourism in 1974, with fewer than 600 tourists visiting the region in its inaugural year. With time,, the area underwent gradual development until 2010, a pivotal year marked by the success of the popular Bollywood movie 3 Idiots which was filmed in Ladakh. It showcased Ladakh’s natural beauty, replete with turquoise lakes and snow-capped mountains to India and the world. The movie's influence was profound, and Ladakh's tourism landscape thus became divided into the periods before and after the release of 3 Idiots.

Ladakh was previously considered an expensive place to visit due to a lack of connectivity and infrastructure. While luxury experiences were not readily available for tourists, necessities such as transport and food were priced higher than other tourist destinations in India. However, in response to the increased demand following 3 Idiots, lower-priced hotels and tour packages began to emerge. At the same time, the scope for luxury tourism became apparent too. 

Identifying the potential

In 2013, The Ultimate Travelling Company (TUTC) introduced a first-of-its-kind luxury camp in Thiksey, Leh. The founders were inspired by an African safari property and recognised the untapped beauty of remote locations in Ladakh, envisioning them as the perfect setting. They quickly found success and opened their second camp in Nubra Valley in 2015.

“The number of tourists [visiting Ladakh] increased from 330,000 in 2018 to 500,000 in 2022. With this growth, a number of new properties have opened, from luxury villas to boutique hotels. The level of luxury in Ladakh has changed over the last five years”, says Deleks Namgyal, President, All Ladakh Tour Operators Association.

When Rigzin Wangmo Lachic conceptualised Dolkhar, a boutique hotel that opened in 2022 and earned a spot on the Time magazine’s World's Greatest Places 2023 list, she was determined to create a space that truly represented Ladakh. Lachin shares, "I wanted to make a point that local could be luxury. I aimed to showcase Ladakhi architecture, craftsmanship, and culture. We constructed the property using traditional materials, collaborated with artisans from the region, and prioritised sustainability, incorporating elements such as solar heating and a zero-plastic ecosystem." 

Safekeeping heritage

Meanwhile, Taruna Seth, founder, Encompass Experience, notes, "The luxury scene in Ladakh has evolved to meet the growing demands of luxury travellers while preserving the region’s cultural and environmental heritage. There is also an increase in personalised services and curated experiences to cater to the diverse preferences of guests." Notable experiences encompass workshops on yak wool, ceramics, Thangka painting, and visits to artisans working with metals. The introduction of a new helicopter service has further reduced travel time between major destinations in Ladakh, allowing visitors more time for exploration.

From a culinary perspective, ventures such as Artisanal Alchemy were born out of a desire to showcase traditional Ladakhi cuisine. Founder Kunzes Angmo, after years of researching Ladakhi dishes and cooking techniques, explains, "My meals are not for everyone. It is a three-hour long session held either at Jade House or in the splendour of Stok Palace, and participants must truly want to learn about and understand the cuisine. I filter the guests to make sure I get the right kind of traveller, given I only host 10 meals a month."

Tourists predominantly visit during the summers while tourism in the winters has been largely overlooked. The few tourists that do visit during winter are adventure enthusiasts seeking trekking experiences or in pursuit of the elusive snow leopard. Moreover, only a handful of establishments remain operational in winter, with Dolkhar being a notable exception. Lachic emphasises “We need to position Ladakh as a year-round destination, and highlight the unique offerings of each season. Winter, in particular, boasts wildlife-spotting, trekking, birding, ice-climbing, and even local village ice hockey.”

Treading a fine line

The surge in the number of tourists brings evident challenges, particularly in the ecologically fragile region of Ladakh, where the impact of the climate crisis is already palpable. The proliferation of hotels and villas exacerbates the strain on groundwater, often reliant on individual bore wells. Rinchen Angmo from Ladakh Ecological Development Group explains, "Leh, once self-sustained, now faces increased demands for energy and water due to tourism. Many hotels disregard regulations, leading to groundwater contamination as well as improper waste disposal. Although efforts are underway to implement policies for water and waste management in Leh, other parts of Ladakh are still a long way from comprehensive solutions." 

Locals express a sentiment that domestic tourists visiting Ladakh often lack respect for the environment and fail to comprehend the challenges faced in running hotels, especially in a region where even having hot water is a struggle. Rigzen Namgyal from Ladakh Serai Group has recently opened a property in a remote region in Zanskar which previously had no quality accommodation due to the harsh conditions. Namgyal reflects, "In the past, the journey to Zanskar featured pristine roads; now, they are dotted with stalls serving Maggi. It's common, not just in Zanskar but across the region, to see packets of Maggi and other packaged goods scattered all over the mountains—a phenomenon I like to call the 'Maggi menace.'"

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