Indian single malt whisky is coming of age

Over the years, Indian whisky hasn’t been held in the highest regard. But that’s starting to change, thanks to a slew of homegrown players

When Indian liquor houses revealed plans to increase the production of world-class single malts in early 2022, a surge of enthusiasm raced through the global whisky sector. It was a welcome step for global spirits wholesalers, who had seen consumer purchases among millennials drop in previous years. Fortunately, things are beginning to improve. The country's burgeoning wine and whisky landscape has drawn a slew of new competitors—including private labels and small-scale distilleries—looking to profit from rising domestic and worldwide demand. 

The signs are more than encouraging. The latest figures show that India has taken over from France as the world's biggest buyer of Scotch whisky by volume. Whisky makers exported 219 million bottles to India, up 60 per cent in 2021, the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) said. While the United States is still the largest buyer by value—it imported Scotch whisky worth $1.27 billion in 2022, India was fifth on the list. It's safe to say that Scotch has long been a status symbol in India, but still has only a two per cent share in the world's largest whisky market.

Blended whisky, often considered a cheaper alternative, has long been the preferred choice for Indian consumers. But the demand for more expensive single malts has been growing too, driven by cultural shifts and a rise in Indians' spending power.

The single malt boom

When it comes to single malt whiskys in India, the segment's growth is directly proportional to the increase in demand for it across age groups. Single malts allow manufacturers to appeal to older purists and millennials with more modern palates. Because of the accessible price points of these offerings, there is plenty of room to experiment and try out a wide variety of styles to see what suits one's tastes, which is an excellent proposition for people who are new to the spirit. 

Indian single malts are not meant to compete directly with Scotch or Bourbon; each liquor has its market niche. Indian distilleries draw inspiration from spirits produced in the country and other parts of the world, primarily Scotland, while applying distinctive procedures that help them stand out in international markets. The age declaration is the primary distinction between Indian single malt and Scotch or Bourbon. While single malt Scotch can be matured for up to 30 years, Indian single malts are confined to between four and twelve years, with most casks never seeing the light of day. This is because temperatures in India are substantially higher, resulting in a far higher percentage of whisky being lost to the angel's share. 

The term ‘angel's share’ can best be described as a phenomenon that affects all whiskies, independent of their region of production. It refers to the amount of whisky lost from evaporation while it is being aged in barrels. In Scotland, this figure is around two per cent, which pales compared to the startling 6-8 per cent that Indian barrels lose to the wind each year.

The pioneers

Amrut Distilleries, a pioneer of Indian single malt, is the only company that sells an Indian malt that has been matured for over ten years. The aptly called ‘Greedy Angels’ series includes three single malts of varying ages: Chairman's Reserve 8, 10, and 12. 

"All three whiskies have captivated the hearts of critics and enthusiasts worldwide. All the bottles are limited-edition and quite popular in home and foreign markets. A big part of this can be ascribed to the whiskies' real taste. They were among the first, if not the first, to be matured for an extended period (eight years or more) at such high temperatures. This allows them to take on the qualities of the barrels fairly uniquely. The barrels' fruitiness and char complement the grain's peat in a wholly distinctive way to the series," says Vikram Nikam, joint managing director of Amrut Distilleries. 

In the first three decades, the company supplied spirits to the Indian military, but it was Neelakanta Rao Jagdale (who was instrumental in spearheading the company for over four decades) who transformed the company's fortunes. By the 1980s, the company had become well-known for its IMFL brand MaQintosh and SilverCup brandy.

Today, the company distributes about 30,000 cases in over a dozen countries, including India, where it is available in Karnataka, Kerala, Puducherry, Maharashtra, Goa, and Chandigarh. Their other major markets are Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, and New Delhi.

And while the tradition of single-malt bottling was started in 2004 by Amrit Distilleries, the brand became famous after whisky connoisseur Jim Murray gave it a rating of 82 out of 100 in 2005 and 2010. In 2010, Murray named Amrut Fusion single malt whisky the third best in the world. And then came Goa's Paul John. "Today, Paul John is India's leading distiller of single malt whisky, producing close to 1.2 million litres annually. And we have a large inventory of close to four million litres in different casks. And we're available in almost 45 different countries," says Paul John master distiller Michael D'Souza.

The growth story

Sommelier Nikhil Agarwal, CEO, All Things Nice & The Wine Cellar believes the current appreciation for Indian single malt whisky can be attributed to quality. "The quality is there, and that's why people like it. The proof is in the pudding. India has long had the potential to make fabulous whiskies, but that potential was never utilised. Instead, the same volume, commercial, low-quality whiskies were introduced to cater to the mass market. There is a buzz around the single malt whiskies produced in India now because select Indian whisky producers are trying very hard to make world-class whiskies to cater to people who know the difference. This has nothing to do with flying the flag; this is purely demand-based because the liquid is pleasurable to drink." 

A surge in the appreciation for Indian varieties of single malt whisky can also be attributed to the COVID-19 pandemic. In 2020, the Indian government banned foreign spirits for the armed forces at the country’s 4,000-odd stores, creating a captive market. Also, the pandemic's disruption of global supply chains exposed many Indian drinkers to local whiskies for the first time. “Once consumers found them matching their expectations, they stayed," says a spokesperson for Godawan, which Diageo launched in 2022. The brand caters to modern, affluent Indians seeking indulgences and enriched and bespoke experiences. "Given the strong sentiment for local pride among global natives, we see an opportunity to present craft spirits, made using the best of artisanship and the diverse agrarian roots India has to offer," says the spokesperson. In the case of Godawan, the brand specifically wanted to focus on provenance, terroir and artisanal craftsmanship. Each plays a critical role in the final proposition—the liquid, the design, and overall packaging and presentation. In fact, Epitome Reserve, India’s first-ever small-batch, artisanal craft, 100 per cent rice whisky, which Godawan released in 2021, was sold out within two months of its launch. A limited edition of only 2,000 bottles, it helped set a precedent for bespoke Indian whisky.

New-age buzz

Wine-Searcher, a wine and alcohol search engine founded in 1999, listed the top ten single malt searches on their site for 2022, which is a reasonable way to discuss the drink’s popularity. According to WS, they are the largest wine and spirits website that measures demand and receives millions of searches from global users daily. 

The top ten? The first five shouldn’t surprise anyone: three expressions by The Macallan, a Glenfiddich, and a Johnnie Walker. But four of the subsequent five top searches were claimed by Amrut and Rampur (Indian), along with two by Yamazaki (Japanese). The previous year, the list didn’t feature any Indian whiskies.

The site's growing audience from one country, in particular, deserves the credit. "The three newcomers are two Indian whiskies and the Johnnie Walker Green Label, and all three of these have been propelled into the top 10 by searches from India," the site explains.

Wine-Searcher attributes the Indian whisky boom to several factors, including a growing middle class in India, increased awareness of and pride in native whiskies, and high taxes on imported spirits inside the country.

"Over the past decade, Indian distilleries have made significant strides in producing single-malt whisky. They have invested in modern equipment, quality ingredients, and skilled craftsmanship. As a result, the quality of Indian single malt whiskies has improved, with some expressions receiving international acclaim. Additionally, more extended maturation periods in the Indian climate, characterised by higher temperatures and humidity, contribute to unique flavor profiles that intrigue whisky enthusiasts," says Prabhkaran Hundal, Senior General Manager of Sales and Marketing of Indri Trini, a new single malt whisky launched late in 2021. 

"Our Piccadily Distillery is located on the banks of the Yamuna River, with access to freshly melted glacier water from the Himalayas. The extreme climate in the region allows for unique interactions between the malt spirits and wood barrels, bringing bold and complex flavours to the whisky. The single malt is also made with six-row Indian barley, grown indigenously in South Haryana and Rajasthan for thousands of years. Indri Trini, our flagship whisky, is India’s first triple-cask single malt matured in ex-Bourbon, ex-French wine and PX Sherry casks. Innovative expressions such as these appeal to whisky enthusiasts who seek unique and exciting flavour experiences," adds Hundal.

How does a single malt stand out?

Making a single malt whisky stand out in the market can be challenging due to the abundance of options available to consumers. Distilleries need to be conscious of maintaining honesty, transparency, and adhering to the whisky-making process by the book. Most demonstrate their commitment to producing quality whiskies and building trust among consumers. These principles contribute to a brand's overall credibility, reputation, and success. And then there's pricing, which also plays a significant role in shaping consumer perception, influencing purchasing decisions, and ultimately determining the success of a whisky brand. 

"You cannot overcharge for quality unless there is a valid reason. Consumers in India, especially the wealthy, are astute and spend their money wisely even when it is a large amount on alcohol. The correct way is to always give more in terms of quality in relation to price, and you will have a winner," says Agarwal.