How can you survive and make it big in the Indian F&B industry? We ask Riyaaz Amlani

“Evolution” and “longevity” are the key words to keep going in the restaurant business, says Riyaaz Amlani

After the hard-fought pandemic-induced lockdowns during the last two years, the food and beverage industry in India has been going through an interesting time, one that has seen many changes. While new eateries are opening up almost every other day, the older ones are evolving as the average person is left spoilt for choice. “Experience” is the key word as foodies keep their minds (and palates) open to new things. However, “longevity” is the game-changer, says Riyaaz Amlani of Impresario Handmade Restaurants. Twenty years in the business and 61 outlets across 16 cities later, the restaurateur tells The Established about the importance of evolution to survive in the Indian F&B industry.

What would you say are the Indian food industry’s biggest achievements in the last two decades?

The industry has been evolving pretty rapidly during the last few years. Starting with absolutely very few options in the dining scene two decades ago to the last few years, the food and services industry has been blossoming in terms of the kind of products and quality offered. We not only have a lot more options in the metro cities but the same can also be seen in many other cities too, places that are coming up with their own interesting concepts.

According to you, which aspects have acted as a learning curve for the industry?

It's hard to blame the industry right now. We do face a lot of environmental challenges and we've had [to deal with] COVID-19, which has been devastating for the industry. The very fact that we have survived such a cataclysmic event goes to show the resilience of the restaurant business. The place where we could do better is that there might not be many restaurants that have something really original to offer and something really meaningful. We can do better there, than just trying to get on a trending bandwagon and actually offer something that is truly unique and special.

Twenty years on, what do you think are your brand Impresario’s biggest accomplishments?

I am very grateful that we have been able to grow from strength to strength. Starting with Mocha and Salt Water Café to Smoke House Deli to Social, I would say that we have contributed a few unique concepts, which I believe have some value of offering to India as a whole. I am very proud of those restaurants as I think they have pushed the envelope a little bit. We hope to be able to take Social to a whole new audience and want to enter newer cities, building a 100 outlets over the next five years.

It's also interesting to note how you pivoted to the cloud kitchen model during the pandemic. Do you see that format lasting? Or do you see it evolving into something new?

Beyond pivoting, I definitely think we adopted the cloud kitchen format a little bit more seriously. Even before the pandemic, we had plans to pursue the dark kitchen model as a delivery model, and the pandemic kind of just accelerated the need to have our vertical that does deliveries. So it's not so much of a pivot because our focus still remains our restaurants and the dining-out experience. But we definitely have paid a lot more attention to delivery in the past two years, and will focus a lot more on it. With people stepping out of their homes now, deliveries have become a little slow. But eventually we see that as a high-growth area. Currently, I think people are just excited about going out and enjoying being out.

In 2022, the food industry is booming and there are new places opening up every other day. What do you think is the right test for a new F&B joint opening in a metro city?

It depends on a lot of things. At the end of the day, people go to eat with their wallets and if a restaurant is doing well, it’s mostly because they are doing something right. A lot of times, restaurants may receive critical acclaim but really fail to bring in the people. Sometimes, the opposite also happens. So it's pretty interesting. You don't necessarily have to be the most artistic or meritorious to be the most successful. At the end of the day, how you resonate with the audience, how you pick your audience and how you build long-term relationships with your restaurant matter.

So while initially, being a new sensation might matter, I think longevity is equally important. When the hype dies and the Instagram photographs are taken, if they [customers] still want to come back, it is because of the food, the service, the storytelling–and these things matter. Staying in the business for a long time is a big achievement for restaurants, which is harder than having a big, flashy opening. Of course, there will be good times and bad in the restaurant business. But ultimately, a deeper connection with the audience is what really matters.

Every industry needs to evolve to survive. What are some of the major changes that the food industry has witnessed?

I think people are definitely open to experimentation. They have an open mind and are willing to try out different types of cuisines. Ethnic cuisine has become very big too, and food can now be very specific to certain parts of the country. People are also becoming wiser about choosing their food and deciding what they want to put into their bodies. All these have become factors and it is a very interesting time to be in the hospitality business.

How do you think the food industry needs to pivot or keep changing to stand the test of time?

There's no one answer to this question. I think a restaurant must examine the reason for its existence, who its audience is and how they're catering to that particular customer. So for example, we go to certain restaurants for the taste of its food or for their vibe or for the people. And I think no matter what the reason in people's minds and hearts is, you have to make sure that you keep delivering on that. At the end of the day, you also want to have one eye on the future and one eye on the past. So while you can keep doing what you are doing, you have to also figure out how you can evolve with the times. So for instance, do you need to upgrade your decor or the way you're writing a menu? Are people fed up with your food? Do you need to put in some more dishes that can bring people back or is there a menu innovation that can happen? So there are various ways in which you can change. Change is always difficult for restaurants, because you have your regulars who come back for more of the same, but you also have an audience that gets bored very easily and is looking for something new all the time. So I think striking a balance is very, very important.

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