For these Indian chefs, creating a dining experience extends to uplifting the immediate local communities

Setting up a restaurant in regions away from urban centres or sourcing hyper-local produce comes with the added benefit of helping the locals to upskill and build generational wealth

The narrow, semi-paved roads leading to Gondwakadi village—located in the Kelapur tehsil of Yavatmal district in northeastern Maharashtra—are lined with cotton farms, the white buds creeping out of the shrubs. The sun is fierce, and the land seems to glisten with steam. Yavatmal is one of 11 districts that come under the Vidarbha region. As India's leading cotton-producing area, the region is looking to ascend the textile value chain in the country. Despite the abundance of ginning and spinning units, Vidarbha faces a substantial impediment in the form of a scarcity of weaving and processing facilities, hindering its overall progress. Regrettably, even the ginning and spinning sectors are now grappling with challenges stemming from outdated cotton cultivation practices, insufficient farm-industry linkages, technological backwardness, and limited infrastructure. The most distressing consequence of this situation is the alarming number of cotton farmers teetering on the edge of despair, with some resorting to drastic measures such as attempting suicide or transitioning to growing alternative crops, as cotton farming no longer proves financially viable.

According to a report published in The Hindu, Maharashtra recorded 2,489 farmer suicides from 1 January to 30 November 2021, and 2,547 farmer suicides in 2020, with over 50 per cent of these deaths recorded in the Vidarbha region during both years.

Given the situation, it might appear counterproductive for chef Amninder Sandhu to take charge of a restaurant in this region. However, she has embraced the challenge. Nestled in the tranquil surroundings near the Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary on the property of safari resort Tipai by Wildlife Luxuries, is Palaash. Sandhu’s brainchild—a bespoke experience—transcends a mere culinary venture.

Local everything

The dining experience at Palaash extends beyond the degustation menu, focusing on localisation, sustainability, and hyper-local flavours prepared over an open fire. Adding to its distinctiveness is the fact that women residing in the nearby villages lead it. However, Sandhu acknowledges that breaking the ice posed challenges, particularly when instructing the women—who had never ventured outside their homes for work—in crafting a guest-centric experience.

"Over the past eight months, since I took over the kitchen, I've observed a positive shift in their demeanor. As they leave, there's an evident increase in their confidence, and a sense of happiness pervades. Many of them started as cleaners in my kitchen, with Pushpa (one of the cooks at Palaash), for instance, having previously worked in security and housekeeping. Over time, she transitioned to the kitchen and eventually took charge of family meals. Recognsing her consistent and commendable performance, I've witnessed the transformative effect this journey has had on her," says Sandhu.

The Tipeshwar forest is home to five tribes, namely the Pardhans, Gonds, Kolams, Navbuddhas, and Kunbis, with the first three considered aboriginal. Unfortunately, the total populations of these tribes, ranging from a few hundred to a thousand, currently face the threat of gradual disappearance. These communities grapple with poverty, experience high infant mortality rates, and are disproportionately affected by sickle cell disease (SCD).

Serving a larger purpose

Tipai's resident manager Rajesh Shankar tells The Established that securing employment in this region has proven challenging over the years. Historically, only men were typically engaged in the workforce. Job opportunities are also limited, particularly for economically disadvantaged and less-educated individuals. "Most locals come from backward communities with sparse educational resources, restricting their employment options. Those who own land may find occasional work in the fields, often during specific seasons, offering employment for approximately three months. For the remainder of the year, the prospects are scarce. Individuals often resort to contract labour, engaging in daily wage labour to sustain themselves," he says. 

Traditionally, societal barriers restricted the local women from venturing outside their homes or villages for employment. This initiative marks the first time these women are exploring opportunities beyond their immediate surroundings. Initially, people used to engage in farm work, but with the advent of construction projects, more women joined as construction labourers and helpers. "Their positive experiences during this phase encouraged many to continue working with us. Following the completion of construction [of the resort], as we commenced operations, a significant number of women joined various departments. Their preferences often leaned towards roles in housekeeping, horticulture, and some exhibited culinary skills, contributing to the preparation of staff meals and, more recently, Palaash," says Shankar.

Observing the women in the kitchen, especially while preparing staff meals daily for Tipai's 300 employees, provides valuable insights. "Their cooking techniques reveal a nuanced proficiency that comes from years of experience, enabling them to grasp instructions swiftly. For instance, when I suggest adjusting the flame to a slower setting, they understand the subtleties and the significant impact it can have on the outcome. This contrasts with younger chefs who might need more time to comprehend such nuances. The daily practice of cooking at home plays a crucial role in honing these skills," explains Sandhu.

Imparting skills

These women have not only contributed to enriching the menu at Palaash through their innate understanding of the region's produce, but they have also undertaken the responsibility of mastering the finer aspects of dining service. Additionally, they willingly introduce the menu to guests in Sandhu’s absence. Sandhu expresses satisfaction in witnessing how a modest investment in these women's skills can yield substantial returns, not only for them but also indirectly benefiting their children and, subsequently, the future generations. This empowerment underscores the broader positive impact that skill development initiatives can have on individuals and their communities.

"These women, whose husbands previously worked in the fields and may have spent a considerable portion of their earnings on alcohol, now find fulfillment in contributing to their families. The families, in turn, express satisfaction as these women redirect their salaries toward household expenses, ensuring smoother family functioning," says Shankar, who adds that until about five or ten years ago, the region faced a shortage of private schools, marking it as relatively underdeveloped compared to other areas in Maharashtra. This status quo has persisted, and even now, the educational landscape primarily comprises government-run schools. "But, there's been a positive shift. With the current salaries being earned, these women can now afford to send their children to private schools in nearby cities. Introducing a couple of good private schools in the area has facilitated this change. As a result, there is a gradual increase in educational awareness, and people recognise the significance of an education in shaping a better future."

What is human sustainability?

Throughout the years, the hospitality industry has been built on the dedicated efforts of individuals, ensuring its seamless operation. Unfortunately, these contributors are frequently overlooked, relegated to being perceived merely as cogs in the machinery. However, a significant paradigm shift is underway concerning workforce well-being. This evolving concept extends beyond an organisation's existing employees to prioritise long-term human sustainability. Restaurants embracing this idea are actively fostering a holistic approach, promoting health, skill development, and a profound sense of purpose and belonging among their staff. In doing so, they are not only supporting their employees' well-being but also positively impacting the suppliers and the larger communities in which they operate. This transformation highlights a growing recognition of the interconnectedness between employee well-being, organisational success, and community flourishing in the hospitality sector.

Beyond the food

In recent years, chef Vanika Choudhary has been at the forefront of the farm-to-table movement in India, establishing restaurants Sequel in 2016 and Noon in 2022—both in Mumbai. Born in Kashmir and later relocating to Jammu just before the onset of militancy, Choudhary has consistently sought to champion the region's culinary legacy. She integrates thoughtfully sourced indigenous produce and traditional cooking methods to craft flavours that span Indian and global cuisines. 

Her time spent in Ladakh as a child significantly influenced Choudhary, playing a pivotal role in shaping her perspective towards food. The realisation struck her as she was setting up Noon: "What is food without people, and what is food without communities? It doesn't have a soul, you know? And also, what is the definition of Indian food, especially overseas? I think it is so generic. How do we change that to being a celebration of people, a celebration of different communities?" 

Fostering community

In conceptualising Noon, Choudhary aimed to move beyond the conventional greenhouse model and developed partnerships with established farmers, opting instead to delve deeper into grassroots connections. "This led me to seek out social entrepreneurs, and through this search, I discovered Ladakh Basket, a social enterprise championing authentic and indigenous products from Ladakhi farmers. Upon contacting Thinles Norboo, co-founder and chief marketing officer, and explaining my vision, it became clear that Noon's foundation would not heavily rely on conventional research and development," she says. 

During their conversation, Norboo informed Choudhary that Ladakh Basket collaborates with 35 women farmers. "He expressed confidence that it could transform their approach if I committed to purchasing their produce. These women were engaged in foraging for unique ingredients like woolly catmint and Ladakhi mint, previously unused in commercial ventures," says Choudhary.

Traditionally, these ingredients were solely employed for personal use, marking the first instance of them being part of a commercial supply chain. This endeavour extends beyond sustainability; it is committed to generating social and economic change. Norboo assured Choudhary that through this collaboration, the women farmers would forage daily during the season, fostering a transformative shift from growing staples like buckwheat and vegetables to a more diversified and sustainable agricultural model. This initiative, rooted in economic empowerment and social impact, stands as a testament to Noon's commitment to creating positive change beyond traditional farming practices.

Paying it forward

To Choudhary, the most gratifying aspect of working with farmer communities lies in the potential it offers for the next generation. "The challenge we've observed in Indian agriculture over the past three decades is that the younger generations are increasingly disinterested in farming. Similarly, this trend was visible in Ladakh when we collaborated with local farmers. Our endeavour provides them with an opportunity to remain in their villages. If you study the map of Ladakh, you'll notice a trend of residents abandoning remote villages in favour of more urbanised areas like Leh. We hope to reverse this trend by creating opportunities for them to stay in their villages, earn a livelihood, and, crucially, allow their children to witness the benefits," she says, adding that working with local communities goes beyond just helping them build generational wealth; it instills a sense of pride and identity. "They take pride in their traditions, and fostering this is a crucial aspect of the positive change we aim to bring about," says Choudhary.

In fact, Noon's current menu, 'Forgotten, Foraged and Fermented,' traces the stories of kitchens shaped by the seasonal shift across many communities. Apart from the women farmers Choudhary works with in Ladakh, she foraged with tribal communities in Neral and Palghar in Maharashtra for ingredients that grow in the region, specifically during monsoon, that are on the verge of being forgotten. They are presented at Noon in a 10-course menu that challenges your palate.

The hills are alive

While many perceive the mountainous regions in India as a peaceful escape, life for the local communities here is far from romantic. The terrain presents challenges that require resilience and hard work. Himalayan food culture, intricately woven into the fabric of survival, is marked by ingenuity and innovation, feels chef Prateek Sadhu, whose 16-seater restaurant Naar in Kasauli, Himachal Pradesh, has had one of the most buzz-worthy openings this year. To truly encapsulate the essence of Himalayan cuisine, Sadhu has delved into the stories of its people. "Their experiences, hardships, and triumphs are integral to the rich tapestry of Himalayan food culture," he says. 

When recruiting talent for Naar, one of Sadhu's primary criteria was the candidates’ willingness to embrace a different approach towards work and life. He recognises the significance of ensuring that individuals leaving the comfort of their familiar surroundings are well-supported. "For the locals who join the Naar team, it's crucial to help them transition smoothly into a new way of operating. While leveraging their expertise, we aim to encourage a shift in perspective, inviting them to contribute without feeling pressured to conform or match a particular pace," says Sadhu. 

More than just a restaurant

Over the past year and a half, as Sadhu has been building the restaurant, extensive travel has established a robust network with local growers. These connections range from individuals cultivating vegetables to those conducting innovative experiments with mushrooms. "One noteworthy encounter was with a local scientist living in a remote area since the 1990s, solely dedicated to growing diverse and exceptional varieties of mushrooms. For instance, he cultivates Lion's Mane mushrooms, a highlight on our inaugural menu," he elaborates. 

Collaborations extend to the local dairy, Himalayan Creamery, and a fish setup providing fresh Himalayan trout. "The sourcing process is more immersive than my previous experiences at restaurants in other cities; it's not about coming here to source but being at the source itself," says Sadhu. 

There's already been an observational change in the area. Such ventures, feel Sadhu, have an important impact on the local economy. "Given that the locals are now finding employment, they've been adding extra rooms to their houses," he says. 

Moreover, the setting up of new shops addressing the basic needs of the village has become a common occurrence. These range from necessities like toothbrushes, which were previously challenging to acquire, to various other day-to-day items. "Our collaboration with the local workforce extends beyond employment—we actively support their businesses. For instance, we work with a craftsman who specialises in making cane baskets, and we not only utilise his products but also assist in selling them," says Sadhu. 

Additionally, Sadhu is invested in personal and professional development. For instance, a security guard's son is training to be a chef in the Naar kitchen. These may seem like smaller contributions, but collectively, they leave a profound impact on the overall well-being and development of the local community, fostering a positive and sustainable relationship.

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