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Spotlighting the layers of time in couture, art, music and cuisine, the fourth edition of Chivas Alchemy had eclecticism at its core.

Chivas Alchemy celebrates the value of luxury over time

Spotlighting the layers of time in couture, art, music and cuisine, with 18 ‘alchemists’ in Mumbai, the fourth edition of Chivas Alchemy had eclecticism at its core.

Branding is one of the most widespread domains that has attracted the attention of CEOs, consultants, managers, and scholars in the last 40 years. How can businesses create effective brands? How can they ensure that customers remember those brands across time and space? What critical characteristics enable some brands to successfully dominate the global brandscape

Malaika Arora Khan in front of artwork by 'alchemist' Viraj Khanna

Malaika Arora Khan in front of artwork by 'alchemist' Viraj Khanna

Artist Vibha Galhotra showcased heritage hand-sewn ghungroos

Artist Vibha Galhotra showcased heritage hand-sewn ghungroos

Rahul Khanna and Kunal Kapoor exchange notes at the Chivas Alchemy event

Rahul Khanna and Kunal Kapoor exchange notes at the Chivas Alchemy event

The formation of new iconic brands is not a simple undertaking, and this is particularly true in the context of luxury brands. Luxury companies confront a double whammy of market newness liability and the uphill job of competing with deeply entrenched incumbents that have made strong inroads into the local cultural fabric due to their unique positioning and niche targeting within the larger mass markets.

New-age designer Dhruv Kapoor showcases at the Chivas Alchemy event

New-age designer Dhruv Kapoor showcases at the Chivas Alchemy event

Shane Peacock of designer duo Falguni and Shane Peacock showcased a couture piece at the event

Shane Peacock of designer duo Falguni and Shane Peacock showcased a couture piece at the event

Namrata Joshipura was one of the veteran designers who showcased at the event

Namrata Joshipura was one of the veteran designers who showcased at the event

This was evident in the fourth edition of Chivas Alchemy, held at Snowball Studios in Mumbai this past weekend. This event has, through the years, spotlighted individuals who have not only created strong brands but have increased their revenue base to enhance their overall brand equity while also strengthening the base of their loyal customers. At this year’s  edition, titled “Kaleidoscope of Time”, 18 alchemists spanning fashion, art, music and food came together to showcase their signature works.

Arjun Kapoor strikes a post against art by Viraj Khanna

Arjun Kapoor strikes a post against art by Viraj Khanna

The luxury landscape

Co-curated by Sunil Sethi, founder of Sunil Sethi Design Alliance, and designer Ashish Soni, over 25 signature styles of nine eminent designers were showcased that have defined fashion through the years. While the fresh fits of today were curated by new-age experimental powerhouses like Bloni, Anvita Sharma, Dhruv Kapoor and Huemn, the couture line that redefined the design vocabulary was showcased by designers Namrata Joshipura, Shantnu & Nikhil, Falguni Shane Peacock, Rajesh Pratap Singh and JJ Valaya. Their ensembles were a testament to time and embodied the luxury and richness that Indian labels have to offer.

“I think I can speak for all of us who showcased that our true DNA is to take wisdom from the past and make it contemporary to fit the present. And that’s what I felt is the best combination of elements we could use to present our brand wherever we go,” says Dhruv Kapoor, the first Indian to stage a menswear show at the Milan Fashion Week. 

Jim Sarbh tries a cocktail whipped up by Salmon Guru from Dubai.

Jim Sarbh tries a cocktail whipped up by Salmon Guru from Dubai.

Rajesh Pratap Singh, who was one of the veteran 'alchemists', showcased at Chivas Alchemy

Rajesh Pratap Singh, who was one of the veteran 'alchemists', showcased at Chivas Alchemy

Shibani Dandekar visits the grazing table at the Chivas Alchemy event

Shibani Dandekar visits the grazing table at the Chivas Alchemy event

Huemn’s brand identity has been inspired by the spirit of community. “Clothing is only a by-product of the story we want to narrate. For us, it’s about telling a story centered on the concept of people, which automatically veers towards inclusivity because we believe in spotlighting the various cultures these people represent,” says founder Pranav Kriti Misra.

Designer Pranav Kirti Misra believes in spotlighting community through his brand Huemn

Designer Pranav Kirti Misra believes in spotlighting community through his brand Huemn

DJ Masha from Dubai took over the console at the Chivas Alchemy event

DJ Masha from Dubai took over the console at the Chivas Alchemy event

Akshat Bansal showcased as a new-age 'alchemist'

Akshat Bansal showcased as a new-age 'alchemist'

Since brands are developed based on providing high symbolic value to a very select group of consumers that favour high-status connotations over underlying price, as a result, the first step for most creatives looking to build a strong luxury brand is to find a particular section of affluent clients and create items they value. How, then, does a designer retain their identity while catering to a discerning audience with an evolved taste? Veteran designer JJ Valaya opines: “That’s the beauty of design when established brands are known for their identity, values and ethos. We’re not clothes makers. I’m known as a royal nomad with a penchant for Art Deco. All my collections have royalty as their main peg, but with a nomadic spirit because I wander in my head. But I found that the Art Deco period of the 1920s was perhaps one of the most glamorous. So, I infuse that energy and create what is known as the ‘Valaya Ethos’, which consumers have resonated with.” 

Designer Ashish Soni co-hosted the Chivas Alchemy event

Designer Ashish Soni co-hosted the Chivas Alchemy event

Artist Viraj Khanna showcased sculptures and paintings at the event

Artist Viraj Khanna showcased sculptures and paintings at the event

Anvita Sharma, founder of genderless fashion label Two Point Two

Anvita Sharma, founder of genderless fashion label Two Point Two

The year 2022 was a busy one for Shantnu & Nikhil. In an interview with The Established, the duo opened their first flagship store for the ready-to-wear line ‘S&N by Shantnu Nikhil’ in Mumbai, followed by four more stores in cities like Bengaluru, Ahmedabad, Gurgaon and Raipur. They also showcased ‘Cappella,’ their baroque-esque couture collection at FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week last month. And now they have launched a new label, ‘Shantnu Nikhil Cricket Club’ (SNCC), to create an aspirational lifestyle experience for cricket enthusiasts. “S&N started as a celebration-wear brand not necessarily restricted to weddings and occasions in conjunction with weddings. The larger idea was to open it up to different men, especially those who want to dress well. This made the idea of celebration-wear fluid—you could wear an S&N shirt to a board meeting, a graduation ceremony or even on your birthday or anniversary. Until now, we’ve worked primarily in two segments—party wear and contemporary Indianwear. But we noticed a gap in the lifestyle and holiday space, a growing segment of interest among several urban Indians. For us, sports is the backdrop against which cricket takes the spotlight. This is a new luxury market for us, too. We’ve paved the way for other designers to look at the sportswear segment with interest,” says the duo. 

The new-age labels Bloni and Huemn

The new-age labels Bloni and Huemn

Layers of time

Art enthusiasts at the event were also treated to a delightful spectacle. Masterpieces of artists Vibha Galhotra and Viraj Khanna were displayed in myriad forms, such as digital art, paintings, sculptures and 3D installations. An internationally acclaimed artist who has made waves through her shows globally, Galhotra showcased heritage hand-sewn ghungroos—metal ankle bells used as feminine accessories in Indian culture—in her intricately crafted sculptures and installations. On the other hand, artist Viraj Khanna, son of couturier Anamika Khanna, reflected his personal experiences by exploring the complexities of human nature through textile art, encouraging viewers to think about their lives, ideologies and behaviours.

Musical acts presented both nostalgic and futuristic beats, commenced by Ajay Bijli, founder of PVR Cinemas, leading his band Random Order, and renowned Ukrainian DJ from Dubai, DJ Masha. Bijlee’s Random Order showcased music reminiscent of the golden days, drawing inspiration from an era gone by. DJ Masha, known for her diverse style, provided twisty, bizarre and unpredictable club music with its own unique charm.

Veteran designers JJ Valaya and Shantnu and Nikhil

Veteran designers JJ Valaya and Shantnu and Nikhil

Artwork showcased by Vibha Galhotra

Artwork showcased by Vibha Galhotra

Shantanu Dhope and Rizwan Bhachav with a friend at the Chivas Alchemy event

Shantanu Dhope and Rizwan Bhachav with a friend at the Chivas Alchemy event

Food for thought

The food on display celebrated creative expressions of memoryingredients and technique by innovative F&B brands in the country and internationally acclaimed bars and mixologists. The concept of memory evoked nostalgia, the technique deployed unconventional gastronomical craft, and ingredients were those that have stood tall across generations. Chef Eric Sifu of KOKO, an Asian fine dining establishment, brought modern pan-Asian fare, and Chef Niyati Rao of Mumbai’s famous ingredient-first restaurant, EKAA, interpreted cuisine inspired by ingredients, people and cultures. For an elevated bar experience, mixologist extraordinaire Giovanni Depergola aka Mr. G (co-founder of Liquid Alembic, Dubai) and world-renowned bar Salmon Guru from Dubai, concocted sophisticated cocktails with balanced blends.

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Also Read: Does India need a luxury sporting brand? Designer duo Shantnu & Nikhil think so


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