Is sustainable fashion reserved for the rich?

Creators of conscious clothing and sustainability advocates weigh in on whether the high price points of eco-friendly fashion make it a luxury that only a select few can afford

You have two choices–a cart filled with fast fashion items and another cart of a comparatively higher value with one sustainable separate. You know what the right decision is but you don’t have the will power, or maybe the means, to make it. Over the last decade or so, eco-friendly fashion has, in many ways, become more accessible. There has been a rise in the number of ethical labels which successfully put to rest the stereotype that sustainability and style don’t go hand in hand. However, there’s one factor that is still keeping consumers from making the switch–a lack of affordability. Conscious clothes frequently carry hefty price tags which have earned them the reputation of being a luxury only a small, privileged group of people can afford. We got sustainability advocates–as well as designers who are building brands with a conscience–to explain what contributes to the high price points of ethical fashion and what can be done to further democratise it.

The key contributors

At the core of sustainable fashion is a fight for not one but several worthy causes–there’s a fight for fair wages, for materials that are kind to the environment, for the preservation of languishing textile traditions and many more. These efforts are what make eco-friendly clothes more expensive. “To be able to claim that a garment is sustainable, the brand needs to be sure of the origin of the materials it is using and the sustainability of its production processes. All of this comes together to contribute to the costs,” says Kriti Wadhwa, founder of Cica India, a platform that’s home to ethically-crafted products across various categories. Anya Gupta, a conscious lifestyle advocate, explains that the prices reflect responsibility at several stages of the journey. “There’s higher quality, integrity and ethics involved in each area of the supply chain from raw materials and manufacturing to packaging and customer experience. Ethical brands offer a better experience, not just to their end customer but also to the people at every step of the chain. This leads to fair pricing of items,” says Gupta.

Pallavi Singh, a conscious content creator, elaborates on this. “Sustainable brands are ethical pay masters–they pay fair wages and usually employ locals, improving the living standard of the area they come from. Fast fashion brands outsource work to developing countries where factories tend to employ women and children who work long shifts often at a daily wage which is less than what a coffee at Starbucks would cost,” says Singh. If any of the aforementioned and inarguably essential expenses are eliminated, what you’re left with is a brand that isn’t sustainable. But are there any elements that can be adjusted to reduce the cost of the clothes without compromising on their conscious quotient?

What brands can do

There are certain costs that are borne by brands, irrespective of their ethics, and those can sometimes be lowered. An example of this is packaging. While sustainable brands need to be mindful of the materials their products are packed and delivered in, the experience doesn’t need to be extravagant. “Sustainable brands can become more affordable by reducing certain overheads on non-essentials, which can bring down their cost price. For instance, you can be producing quality clothing but you don't necessarily need over-the-top packaging that adds to the cost price of the parcel–especially when that experience lasts a minute,” says Gupta.

In addition to this, there are other expenses that were mandatory in the past but are now optional. Consumers are getting accustomed to the ease of e-commerce and a brick-and-mortar space is no longer always essential to the success of a brand. By building an impactful online presence which involves much less investment than a physical store, brands can not only reap many benefits–more awareness and a wider consumer base among other things–but also reduce the price of their products that will no longer have to take into account exorbitant rents.

What consumers can do

While there are changes that brands can make, consumers have a role to play too, and it primarily involves cultivating a new mindset. Before you dismiss a sustainable item as too expensive, it’s important to do a little math with a formula called “cost per wear”. Here’s how it works: A shirt from a fast fashion brand may cost less than something similar that’s sustainable but it’s probably made using low quality materials that won’t last long. On the other hand, the eco-friendly alternative, which is crafted using superior fabrics, will survive more washes. If you divide its cost by the number of times you can wear it, you’ll realise that it isn’t exactly expensive.

“The price of clothing made sustainably seems high only when viewed against the backdrop of fast fashion, which has conditioned a generation to expect cheaper items. If you look back at the generations before us, you’ll find wise buying patterns with an emphasis on longevity and quality. Being a land of handicrafts and artisanal practices, we’ve historically placed the greatest importance on value. It is only in our recent past that we’ve shifted towards accumulation and wasteful consumption,” says designer Urvashi Kaur whose eponymous label has long created quality conscious clothing.

There is, however, one factor other than longevity that Kaur believes is key to getting more wear out of your purchases–versatility. Kanika Jain, founder of Kanelle, a label comprising many multitasking styles, also confirms this. “It’s best to look for pieces that are evergreen. They have repeat value and can be worn in multiple ways with multiple things,” she adds. So if we make these small shifts, it will slowly and steadily lead to a rise in demand, which will eventually lower price points. “It’s a matter of demand and supply. As more people adopt slow fashion and the demand for it increases, we will see more innovation in this area, which will help reduce prices to a certain extent,” says Kaur. Apoorva Gupta, founder of New Delhi-based sustainable brand APZ, is aligned to this school of thought. “Like we’ve seen with other industries, popularity will be key in making sustainable brands more affordable,” she says.

The other side of sustainable fashion

However, being a conscious consumer doesn’t involve acquiring new eco-friendly outfits alone. Social media exposes us to a glamorous side of sustainable fashion and very sparingly covers its other facets which are easier on the pocket, such as reusing not just your own possessions but also those of people close to you. “When you have a few people you can borrow clothes from or lend clothes to, it gives you access to more choices, preventing you from making unnecessary purchases,” says Wadhwa.

If borrowing isn't a possibility, there are other options as well. “Renting or buying second-hand clothing can significantly reduce textile waste. With new initiatives like Relove, brands and customers are even able to sell pre-owned pieces, making sustainable fashion more affordable,” adds Kaur.

Additionally, for those who don’t mind putting in a little extra effort, crafting your own clothes can also be a fun yet cost-effective strategy. “Buy materials from local handloom stores or fabric markets and get classics such as trousers, skirts and blouses stitched from a good tailor. Don’t throw away garments that need mending, get creative instead. Something like a tiny hole can be repaired with rafoo [darning]or patchwork,” says Singh. While these options seem easy enough, a few of them are accompanied by the fear that they’ll result in a dull wardrobe devoid of choices. “Accessorising is a great way to go about creating an exciting wardrobe. The right bag, belt, jewelry can help elevate your look without additional new clothes. Also, experimenting with different hairstyles is underrated,” concludes Anya Gupta, leaving us with an eco-conscious and affordable approach to fashion that’s far from boring.

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